Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
You might think Seyðisfjörður is the end of the line, but further retreat is possible. The re-
mote farm Skálanes, 19km east of Seyðisfjörður along the fjord edge, is an independent
nature reserve and heritage field centre. The owner has restored the once-abandoned farm-
stead into a veritable Eden for amateur botanists, ecologists, archaeologists (remains from
the Settlement Era have been found) and birdwatchers (more than 45 avian species).
Its isolation and experimental nature (it's plugged as a place of learning, not a regular
guesthouse) will appeal to naturalists; a stay of a few days is recommended.
A variety of stay-over packages are available, incorporating guiding and meals (guests
may use the kitchen). Straight-up B&B accommodation in cosily refurbished rooms goes
for Ikr14,100/19,500 for a single/double; a simple two-course dinner is Ik3500.
Getting to Skálanes is an adventure in itself. You could walk all the way from Seyðis-
fjörður (there are footbridges across the three rivers); ride a mountain bike or paddle a
kayak hired from Hlynur Oddsson. In a normal car, consider driving 13km along the rough
unsealed road until you get to the river, then walking about 4km (the walk is highly recom-
mended, but call to enquire about the state of the road before driving in a small 2WD). In a
good-sized 4WD you can drive the whole way there (take care fording the rivers). A final
option: have the centre pick you up from Seyðisfjörður/the river (Ikr8000/6000 return per
vehicle).
Mjóifjörður
Pop 35
The next fjord south of Seyðisfjörður is Mjóifjörður ('Narrow Fjord'), flanked by spectacu-
lar cliffs and rows of cascading waterfalls. The gravel road leading into the fjord (Rte 953)
is slow-going for 2WDs, but once you make it in you'll be surrounded by lush hills
peppered with fascinating ruins and schools of farmed fish leaping out of the frigid fjord
water. A rusted herring vessel sits beached, the perfect photographic prop.
On the north side of the fjord at Brekkuþorp (often labelled Iceland's smallest village),
Sólbrekka ( 476 0007; http://mjoifjordur.weebly.com ;cottages excl linen Ikr16,000; Jun-Sep)
is the one and only place to stay around here, and it's a welcome sight for hikers.
There's an old schoolhouse near the sea (open mid-June to mid-August, camping/
sleeping-bag accommodation per person Ikr1000/4000), but the real treat lies up the hill -
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