North Iceland - Iceland - page 465

The bus stop is at the N1 south of the centre. Strætó ( 540 2700; www.straeto.is ) services:
Bus 57 to Reykjavík (Ikr5950, 4½ hours, two daily)
Bus 57 to Akureyri (Ikr2100, 1½ hours, two daily)
Bus 57 to Varmahlíð (Ikr700, 20 minutes, two daily)
Bus 85 to Hólar and Hofsós (Ikr700 to either destination, two daily Wednesday, Friday and
Sunday). These services only operate if prebooked. Call Strætó at least two hours before
departure.
Around Sauðárkrókur
North of Sauðárkrókur, Skagafjörður's western coast is a stunningly silent place capped by
scenic mountains. Guarding the mouth of Skagafjörður are the uninhabited islands of
Drangey and Málmey, tranquil havens for nesting seabirds.
Tindastóll (989m) is a prominent Skagafjörður landmark, extending for 18km along the
coast. The mountain and its caves are believed to be inhabited by an array of sea monsters,
trolls and giants. The summit of Tindastóll affords a spectacular view across all of Sk-
agafjörður. The easiest way to the top is along the marked trail that starts from the high
ground along Rte 745 west of the mountain (it's a strenuous hike). There's skiing here in
winter.
At Tindastóll's northern end is a geothermal area, Reykir , that was mentioned in Gret-
tir's Saga . Grettir supposedly swam ashore from the island of Drangey and soothed his
aching bones in an inviting spring. Today, Grettislaug (Grettir's Bath; 821 0090;
www.drangey.net ;adult/child Ikr750/350; morning-midnight) is a popular bathing hole, along-
side a second hot-pot.
In the immediate vicinity of Grettislaug are a small cafe, well-equipped campground
(per person Ikr1000) and guesthouse (per person Ikr7500) with sleeping-bag beds for
Ikr4800. Boats to Drangey leave from here, and there are great walks in the area.
Drivers beware: it's a rough, skiddy 15km on gravel from Sauðárkrókur to Grettislaug.