Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
VATNSNES PENINSULA
Poking out into Húnaflói, stubby Vatnsnes Peninsula is a starkly beautiful place with a
ridge of craggy hills marching down its spine. Rte 711, a rough gravel road, weaves along
the coast and makes a splendid detour off the Ring Road (it's about 82km in total, from
the Ring Road to Hvammstangi and around the peninsula on Rte 711.)
On the west side there's a simple campsite at
Illugastaðir
farm
(sites per person Ikr1000;
20 Jun-Aug), with wonderful views of peaks along the Strandir coast in the Westfjords.
There are lovely walks through bird-filled fields to a popular site for sunbaking seals; note
that the farm is closed from 1 May to 20 June due to eider duck nesting.
This storied farm is the site of the crime leading to the last public execution in Iceland
(1830). Agnes Magnúsdóttir and Friðrik Sigurðsson were convicted of the murder of two
men at Illugastaðir, and they were executed by beheading at Þrístapar, a site south of
Blönduós. Their remains lie in a grave at Tjörn churchyard, further north along the penin-
sula.
The story of the crime and executions was the basis for a 1995 Icelandic film Agnes,
and a recent acclaimed novel, Burial Rites,by Australian writer Hannah Kent.
Three kilometres past Illugastaðir (roughly 25km from Hvammstangi) is the wonder-
in a converted barn where fish soup is the star (skyr,a yoghurt-like dessert, is another
highlight on the short menu). The property owners, Sigrún and Robert, are long-time loc-
als with fascinating stories. Robert's father was a Scottish minister who came to preach
(and teach football skills) in Iceland; Robert has a small history exhibition next to the res-
taurant, in his 'Scottish castle'.
On the peninsula's east coast you'll happen upon a signed path leading to the splen-
didly photogenic 15m-high sea stack
Hvítserkur
. Legend has it that Hvítserkur was a troll
caught by the sunrise while attempting to destroy the monastery at Þingeyrar; we think
he looks like a huge stone beast drinking from the water.
Just southeast of Hvítserkur (or 30km north of the Ring Road), is a trail to a seal-
Ikr4000/11,300; May-Sep; ), one of Iceland's nicest hostels (thanks to friendly owner
Knútur, good views and the nearby wildlife). The hostel is on a working dairy farm, with
rooms, cottages, and a Mongolian yurt where breakfast is served! Bring your own food as
