The Westfjords - Iceland - page 412

Dýrafjörður & Önundarfjörður
A series of gorgeous broad valleys stretch across the northern shore of Dýrafjörður. On
bumpy track Rte 624, at the fjord-side edge of the valleys, there's a lovely weatherboard
church and one of Iceland's oldest botanic gardens, Skrúður ( 24hr) , which was estab-
lished as a teaching garden in 1905 and has arched whalebones at the entrance.
Beyond Skrúður, about 7km from Rte 60 along Rte 624, is Núpur Guesthouse ( 456
8235; www.hotelnupur.is ; sites per tent Ikr2500, d with/without bathroom incl breakfast Ikr23,600/
17,000; mid-May-mid-Sep) , where brothers Siggi and Gummi have done their darnedest to
turn this former schooling complex into desirable digs. Sleeping-bag accommodation costs
Ikr4500, and there's a guest kitchenette. In 2015 a daily bus (June to August) is scheduled
to connect Ísafjörður and Brjánslækur, the ferry terminal for Stykkishólmur; it can stop at
the Núpur turn-off on request. Check www.westfjords.is for the latest information.
After Núpur Guesthouse, Rte 624 passes an abandoned farmhouse before swerving in-
land to head over the top of the rugged peninsula. It takes about 20 minutes by car to reach
Ingjaldsandur at the mouth of Önundarfjörður. Set in a picturesque valley, this isolated
beach is a fantastic spot to watch the midnight sun as it flirts with the sea before rising
back up into the sky.
Back on Rte 60, near upper Önundarfjörður, is a marked turn-off for Kirkjuból ( 456
7679; www.kirkjubol.is ;d with/without bathroom incl breakfast Ikr20,000/14,300; Jun-Aug; ) .
The lovely, remote white-and-green farmstead is squeaky-clean inside, with rooms sport-
ing some antiques, a guest kitchen and a living room.
A second turn-off further north (also marked Kirkjuból) leads 5km to the popular Kor-
pudalur HI Hostel (Korpudalur Kirkjuból; 456 7808; www.korpudalur.is ;sites per tent Ikr1300,
dm/d with shared bathroom from Ikr4800/12,400; mid-May-mid-Sep; ) . The stunning loca-
tion at the fjord-head, home-made breakfast bread, and cottages out back make this
100-year-old farmhouse well worth visiting. HI members discount Ikr700. Pick-ups are
available from Ísafjörður for Ikr1500.
In 2015 a daily bus (June to August) is scheduled to connect Ísafjörður and Brjánslækur,
the ferry terminal for Stykkishólmur; it can stop at the Kirkjuból junctions on request.
Check www.westfjords.is for the latest information.