Reykjavík - Iceland - page 185

HAFNARFJÖRÐUR'S HIDDEN WORLDS

Many Icelanders believe that their country is populated by hidden races - jarðvergar
(gnomes), álfar(elves), ljósálfar(fairies), dvergar(dwarves), ljúflingar(lovelings), tívar
(mountain spirits), englar(angels) and huldufólk(hidden people). Although some are
embarrassed to say they believe, most refuse to say hand-on-heart that they don'tbe-
lieve. You'll see many Icelandic gardens feature small wooden álfhól(elf houses).
Hafnarfjörður (population 27,400), 12km south of Reykjavik, is believed to lie at the
confluence of several strong ley lines (mystical lines of energy) and rests on a 7000-year-
old flow that, according to locals, hides a parallel elfin universe. Visitors walk through Hel-
lisgerði ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.elfgarden.is ; 1-5pm Tue-Sun), a peaceful park filled with lava
grottoes and apparently one of the favourite places of the hidden people. A 90-minute
pricey Hidden Worlds tour ( 694 2785; www.alfar.is ; per person Ikr3900; 2.30pm Tue & Fri

Jun-Aug) leaves from the tourist office ( GOOGLE MAP ; 585 5500; www.visithafnarfjordur.is ;

Strandgata 6; 8am-4pm Mon-Fri), which also sells elf maps. On weekends get info at

Pakkhúsið.
Hafnarfjörður Museum ( 585 5780), the town's other main attraction, is divided over
several old tin-clad houses near the harbour, exploring local history. Start at Pakkhúsið (
GOOGLE MAP ;Vesturgata 8; 11am-5pm Jun-Aug, Sat & Sun Sep-May), the primary site. There
are hot springs and mud pools and vibrant mineral lakes south of town, in Krýsuvík .
In a pinch, overnight at Lava Hostel & Campsite ( GOOGLE MAP ; 565 0900, 895 0906;
www.hafnarfjordurguesthouse.is ;Hjallabraut 51;campsites per adult Ikr1200, dm from Ikr4500, d
without bathroom Ikr13,000; mid-May-mid-Sep; ). Find good eats at popular cafe Súfis-
tinn ( GOOGLE MAP ; 565 3740; www.sufistinn.is ;Strandgata 9;mains Ikr1200-1600;
8.15am-11.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-11.30pm Sat, 11am-11.30pm Sun), or delicious, creative vegetari-
an food at Gló ( GOOGLE MAP ; 553 1111; www.glo.is ; Strandgata 34;mains Ikr1700-2500;
11am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun).
Get here on bus 1 (30 minutes from Reykjavík). The Flybus ( www.re.is ) to Keflavík In-
ternational Airport will stop in Hafnarfjörður if pre-arranged.

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