Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
attic. Temperatures should not fall below freezing for too long, though cabbage can briefly handle as
low as 23°F (−5°C). Nor should temperatures climb above 41°F (5°C), as this could bring plants out of
dormancy too early.
Overwintered cabbage heads being planted out in early spring. Over the course of the winter, several leaf layers were re-
moved.
Overwintering entire plants outdoors
. Appropriate for regions with mild winters (temperature drops
to around freezing at the lowest): southern, maritime, and Mediterranean regions. One method is fre-
quently described in older seed propagation literature. Lay entire cabbage plants the long way in deep
furrows, making sure that the plants do not touch each other. Cover with soil. If frost is expected, cov-
er additionally with straw or leaves to insulate. Remove this layer in the spring. Plants bolt on their
own in the spring and need not be dug up. In wet winters, plants may rot in the ground; if this is a con-
cern, use one of the two aforementioned methods.
OVERWINTERING TRUNKS
An alternative to overwintering entire heads of cabbage is to overwinter
only the leafless but not-yet-bolted “trunks.” This method is suitable when plants are grown in hoop
houses and high tunnels. If you are interested in using this method, start your planning with the timing
of seed sowing: cabbage overwintered in this way must be started as early as possible. In late summer,
remove the entire fully developed head by making slanted cuts with a sharp knife. Ideally, this wound
will heal quickly with a few hot, dry days. Disinfect the wound with bone black or wood ash. The
dried, healed wound can also be sealed with artificial bark to prevent entry by disease-causing agents.
Overwinter the stalks in one of the three ways just described. The main advantage of this method is re-
duced maintenance over the winter. The main drawback is reduced seed yield.
OVERWINTERING YOUNG PLANTS
This should be done as a last resort, as plants do not develop large
heads with this method, thus eliminating the possibility of selecting for anything useful. Sow seeds in
late summer so that plants develop at least two leaves as big as the palm of a hand and overwinter
them in this state. These young plants can handle temperatures as low as 19°F (−7°C). If the plants
have yet to “fatten up” and are kept “dry” through minimal watering in autumn, they can handle even
colder temperatures. If plants are too young (about the size of cabbage plant-outs) when winter starts,
they will not flower the second year but rather form a head, as if it were the first season.
