Hardware Reference
In-Depth Information
a thread into the hole in the cross channel. For the M3 ixings I used, this meant drilling a 2.5 mm
hole and running an M3 tap through it. he aluminum is 1/8" thick, so it takes a thread nicely -
but remember that it is only aluminum, so don't tighten it up too much, or you might strip the
thread. When cutting thread with a tap, once it is going, always turn it one turn in and then half a
turn out. his cuts of the swarf and stops the hole from jamming up. Use a drop of oil when cut-
ting a thread to make the tap last longer. If you are in your local DIY store and ask where the taps
are, and are directed to the plumbing section, then ind a store that knows what it is selling.
Figure 16-6:
he notch
needed on one
side of each
angled channel.
Remember when ixing the aluminum channel together you always need two ixing points per
side - one is not enough. he bottom channels of each arm of the frame drop onto four 2' 8"
dowel rods, which in turn are set into a loor or bench mounting frame shown in Figure 16-7. I
bolted the pieces together with M6 nuts and bolts and ixed a 10" by 3" by 1 1/2" block in the
middle of the long side with glue and screws from the underside. I drilled in four 1" holes using
a saw drill so that the dowels could be slotted in place. Cut of the dowels at 45 degrees at the
top so that they slip under the angled aluminum channel, and a hole through the vertical chan-
nel and dowel allows a bolt and wing nut to fasten it into place. Study the inished structure
shown in Figure 16-8 to get the idea of what you need to build. he frame on the base is approx-
imately 3' by 1' 4", and contrasting bright colours for the paint can give it more of a fun look.
 
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