Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
tributary of the Watelai river, and situated nearly in the centre of the mainland of Aru. The
people there were said to be good, and to be accustomed to hunting and bird-catching, being
too far inland to get any part of their food from the sea. While I was deciding this point the
squall burst upon us, and soon raised a rolling sea in the shallow water, which upset an oil
bottle and a lamp, broke some of my crockery, and threw us all into confusion. Rowing hard
we managed to get back into the main river by dusk, and looked out for a place to cook our
suppers. It happened to be high water, and a very high tide, so that every piece of sand or
beach was covered, and it was with the greatest difficulty, and after much groping in the
dark, that we discovered a little sloping piece of rock about two feet square on which to
make a fire and cook some rice. The next day we continued our way back, and on the fol-
lowing day entered a stream on the south side of the Watelai river, and ascending to where
navigation ceased found the little village of Wanumbai, consisting of two large houses sur-
rounded by plantations, amid the virgin forests of Aru.
As I liked the look of the place, and was desirous of staying some time, I sent my pilot to
try and make a bargain for house accommodation. The owner and chief man of the place
made many excuses. First, he was afraid I would not like his house, and then was doubtful
whether his son, who was away, would like his admitting me. I had a long talk with him my-
self, and tried to explain what I was doing, and how many things I would buy of them, and
showed him my stock of beads, and knives, and cloth, and tobacco, all of which I would
spend with his family and friends if he would give me house-room. He seemed a little
staggered at this, and said he would talk to his wife, and in the meantime I went for a little
walk to see the neighbourhood. When I came back, I again sent my pilot, saying that I
would go away if he would not give me part of his house. In about half an hour he returned
with a demand for about half the cost of building a house, for the rent of a small portion of it
for a few weeks. As the only difficulty now was a pecuniary one, I got out about ten yards
of cloth, an axe, with a few beads and some tobacco, and sent them as my final offer for the
part of the house which I had before pointed out. This was accepted after a little more talk,
and I immediately proceeded to take possession.
The house was a good large one, raised as usual about seven feet on posts, the walls about
three or four feet more, with a high-pitched roof. The floor was of bamboo laths, and in the
sloping roof was an immense shutter, which could be lifted and propped up to admit light
and air. At the end where this was situated the floor was raised about a foot, and this piece,
about ten feet wide by twenty long, quite open to the rest of the house, was the portion I was
to occupy. At one end of this piece, separated by a thatch partition, was a cooking place,
with a clay floor and shelves for crockery. At the opposite end I had my mosquito curtain
