Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
for I could not get any regular servants to go to such a terribly remote country; one might as
well ask a
chef de cuisine
to go to Patagonia.
On the fifth day that I had spent on board (Dec. 15th) the rain ceased, and final prepara-
tions were made for starting. Sails were dried and furled, boats were constantly coming and
going, and stores for the voyage, fruit, vegetables, fish, and palm sugar, were taken on
board. In the afternoon two women arrived with a large party of friends and relations, and at
parting there was a general nose-rubbing (the Malay kiss), and some tears shed. These were
promising symptoms for our getting off the next day; and accordingly, at three in the morn-
ing, the owner came on board, the anchor was immediately weighed, and by four we set sail.
Just as we were fairly off and clear of the other praus, the old juragan repeated some pray-
ers, all around responding with 'Allah il Allah,' and a few strokes on a gong as an accom-
paniment, concluding with all wishing each other 'Salaamat jalan,' a safe and happy jour-
ney. We had a light breeze, a calm sea, and a fine morning, a prosperous commencement of
our voyage of about a thousand miles to the far-famed Aru Islands.
The wind continued light and variable all day, with a calm in the evening before the land
breeze sprang up. We were then passing the island of 'Tanakaki' (foot of the land), at the ex-
treme south of this part of Celebes. There are some dangerous rocks here, and as I was
standing by the bulwarks, I happened to spit over the side; one of the men begged I would
not do so just now, but spit on deck, as they were much afraid of this place. Not quite com-
prehending, I made him repeat his request, when, seeing he was in earnest, I said, 'Very
well, I suppose there are “hantus” (spirits) here.' 'Yes,' said he, 'and they don't like any-
thing to be thrown overboard; many a prau has been lost by doing it.' Upon which I prom-
ised to be very careful. At sunset the good Mahometans on board all repeated a few words
of prayer with a general chorus, reminding me of the pleasing and impressive 'Ave Maria'
of Catholic countries.
Dec
. 20
th
.—At sunrise we were opposite the Bontyne mountain, said to be one of the
highest in Celebes. In the afternoon we passed the Salayer Straits and had a little squall,
which obliged us to lower our huge mast, sails, and heavy yards. The rest of the evening we
had a fine west wind, which carried us on at near five knots an hour, as much as our lumber-
ing old tub can possibly go.
Dec
. 21
st
.—A heavy swell from the south-west rolling us about most uncomfortably. A
steady wind was blowing, however, and we got on very well.
Dec
. 22
d
.—The swell had gone down. We passed Boutong, a large island, high, woody,
and populous, the native place of some of our crew. A small prau returning from Bali to the
island of Goram overtook us. The nakoda (captain) was known to our owner. They had been
