Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
firmer ground between, making progression exceedingly difficult. The path was bordered
with high rigid grass, growing in dense clumps separated by water, so that nothing was to be
gained by leaving the beaten track, and we were obliged to go floundering on, never know-
ing where our feet would rest, as the mud was now a few inches, now two feet, deep, and
the bottom very uneven, so that the foot slid down to the lowest part, and made it difficult to
keep one's balance. One step would be upon a concealed stick or log, almost dislocating the
ankle, while the next would plunge into soft mud above the knee. It rained all the way, and
the long grass, six feet high, met over the path; so that we could not see a step of the way
ahead, and received a double drenching. Before we got to the village it was dark, and we
had to cross over a small but deep and swollen stream by a narrow log of wood, which was
more than a foot under water. There was a slender shaking stick for a handrail, and it was
nervous work feeling in the dark in the rushing water for a safe place on which to place the
advanced foot. After an hour of this most disagreeable and fatiguing walk we reached the
village, followed by the men with our guns, ammunition, boxes, and bedding, all more or
less soaked. We consoled ourselves with some hot tea and cold fowl, and went early to bed.
The next morning was clear and fine, and I set out soon after sunrise to explore the neigh-
bourhood. The village had evidently been newly formed, and consisted of a single straight
street of very miserable huts totally deficient in every comfort, and as bare and cheerless in-
side as out. It was situated on a little elevated patch of coarse gravelly soil, covered with the
usual high rigid grass, which came up close to the backs of the houses. At a short distance in
several directions were patches of forest, but all on low and swampy ground. I made one at-
tempt along the only path I could find, but soon came upon a deep mud-hole, and found that
I must walk barefoot if at all; so I returned and deferred further exploration till after break-
fast. I then went on into the jungle and found patches of sago-palms and a low forest vegeta-
tion, but the paths were everywhere full of mud-holes, and intersected by muddy streams
and tracts of swamp, so that walking was not pleasurable, and too much attention to one's
steps was not favourable to insect catching, which requires above everything freedom of
motion. I shot a few birds, and caught a few butterflies, but all were the same as I had
already obtained about Cajeli.
On my return to the village I was told that the same kind of ground extended for many
miles in every direction, and I at once decided that Wayapo was not a suitable place to stay
at. The next morning early we waded back again through the mud and long wet grass to our
boat, and by mid-day reached Cajeli, where I waited Ali's return to decide on my future
movements. He came the following day, and gave a very bad account of Pelah, where he
had been. There was a little brush and trees along the beach, and hills inland covered with
