Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
winds all the way, and had to make almost the whole distance from Amboyna by force of
rowing. We had therefore all the disadvantages, and none of the advantages, of this west
monsoon, which I was told would insure me a quick and pleasant journey.
I was delayed at Kissa-laut just four weeks, although after the first three days I saw that it
would be quite useless for me to stay, and begged the Rajah to give me a prau and men to
carry me on to Goram. But instead of getting one close at hand, he insisted on sending sev-
eral miles off; and when after many delays it at length arrived, it was altogether unsuitable
and too small to carry my baggage. Another was then ordered to be brought immediately,
and was promised in three days, but double that time elapsed and none appeared, and we
were obliged at length to get one at the adjoining village, where it might have been so much
more easily obtained at first. Then came caulking and covering over, and quarrels between
the owner and the Rajah's men, which occupied more than another ten days, during all
which time I was getting absolutely nothing, finding this part of Ceram a perfect desert in
zoology, although a most beautiful country, and with a very luxuriant vegetation. It was a
complete puzzle, which to this day I have not been able to understand; the only thing I ob-
tained worth notice during my month's stay here being a few good land shells.
At length, on April 4th, we succeeded in getting away in our little boat of about four tons
burthen, in which my numerous boxes were with difficulty packed so as to leave sleeping
and cooking room. The craft could not boast an ounce of iron or a foot of rope in any part of
its construction, nor a morsel of pitch or paint in its decoration. The planks were fastened to-
gether in the usual ingenious way with pegs and rattans. The mast was a bamboo triangle,
requiring no shrouds, and carrying a long mat sail; two rudders were hung on the quarters by
rattans, the anchor was of wood, and a long and thick rattan served as a cable. Our crew
consisted of four men, whose sole accommodation was about three feet by four in the bows
and stern, with the sloping thatch roof to stretch themselves upon for a change. We had
nearly a hundred miles to go, fully exposed to the swell of the Banda sea, which is some-
times very considerable; but we luckily had it calm and smooth, so that we made the voyage
in comparative comfort.
On the second day we passed the eastern extremity of Ceram, formed of a group of hum-
mocky limestone hills; and, sailing by the islands of Kwammer and Keffing, both thickly in-
habited, came in sight of the little town of Kilwaru, which appears to rise out of the sea like
a rustic Venice. This place has really a most extraordinary appearance, as not a particle of
land or vegetation can be seen, but a long way out at sea a large village seems to float upon
the water. There is of course a small island of several acres in extent; but the houses are built
so closely all round it upon piles in the water, that it is completely hidden. It is a place of
