Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
XXIV
Batchian
( OCTOBER 1858 TO APRIL 1859)
I landed opposite the house kept for the use of the Resident of Ternate, and was met by a re-
spectable middle-aged Malay, who told me he was Secretary to the Sultan, and would receive
the official letter with which I had been provided. On giving it him, he at once informed me I
might have the use of the official residence which was empty. I soon got my things on shore,
but on looking about me found that the house would never do to stay long in. There was no
water except at a considerable distance, and one of my men would be almost entirely occu-
pied getting water and firewood, and I should myself have to walk all through the village
every day to the forest, and live almost in public, a thing I much dislike. The rooms were all
boarded, and had ceilings, which are a great nuisance, as there are no means of hanging any-
thing up except by driving nails, and not half the conveniences of a native bamboo and thatch
cottage. I accordingly inquired for a house outside of the village on the road to the coal
mines, and was informed by the Secretary that there was a small one belonging to the Sultan,
and that he would go with me early next morning to see it.
We had to pass one large river, by a rude but substantial bridge, and to wade through an-
other fine pebbly stream of clear water, just beyond which the little hut was situated. It was
very small, not raised on posts, but with the earth for a floor, and was built almost entirely of
the leaf-stems of the sago-palm, called here 'gaba-gaba.' Across the river behind rose a
forest-clad bank, and a good road close in front of the house led through cultivated grounds
to the forest about half a mile on, and thence to the coal mines four miles further. These ad-
vantages at once decided me, and I told the Secretary I would be very glad to occupy the
house. I therefore sent my two men immediately to buy 'ataps' (palm-leaf thatch) to repair
the roof, and the next day, with the assistance of eight of the Sultan's men, got all my stores
and furniture carried up and pretty comfortably arranged. A rough bamboo bedstead was
soon constructed, and a table made of boards which I had brought with me, fixed under the
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