Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
XXII
Gilolo
( MARCH AND SEPTEMBER 1858)
I made but few and comparatively short visits to this large and little known island, but ob-
tained a considerable knowledge of its natural history by sending first my boy Ali, and then
my assistant, Charles Allen, who stayed two or three months each in the northern peninsula,
and brought me back large collections of birds and insects. In this chapter I propose to give a
sketch of the parts which I myself visited. My first stay was at Dodinga, situated at the head
of a deep bay exactly opposite Ternate, and a short distance up a little stream which penet-
rates a few miles inland. The village is a small one, and is completely shut in by low hills.
As soon as I arrived, I applied to the head man of the village for a house to live in, but all
were occupied, and there was much difficulty in finding one. In the meantime I unloaded my
baggage on the beach and made some tea, and afterwards discovered a small hut which the
owner was willing to vacate if I would pay him five guilders for a month's rent. As this was
something less than the fee-simple value of the dwelling, I agreed to give it him for the priv-
ilege of immediate occupation, only stipulating that he was to make the roof water-tight. This
he agreed to do, and came every day to talk and look at me; and when I each time insisted
upon his immediately mending the roof according to contract, all the answer I could get was,
'Ea nanti,' (Yes, wait a little.) However, when I threatened to deduct a quarter guilder from
the rent for every day it was not done, and a guilder extra if any of my things were wetted, he
condescended to work for half an hour, which did all that was absolutely necessary.
On the top of a bank, of about a hundred feet ascent from the water, stands the very small
but substantial fort erected by the Portuguese. Its battlements and turrets have long since been
overthrown by earthquakes, by which its massive structure has also been rent; but it cannot
well be thrown down, being a solid mass of stonework, forming a platform about ten feet
high, and perhaps forty feet square. It is approached by narrow steps under an archway, and is
now surmounted by a row of thatched hovels, in which live the small garrison, consisting of a
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