Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
XXI
The Moluccas—Ternate
On the morning of the 8th of January, 1858, I arrived at Ternate, the fourth of a row of fine
conical volcanic islands which skirt the west coast of the large and almost unknown island of
Gilolo. The largest and most perfectly conical mountain is Tidore, which is over four thou-
sand feet high—Ternate being very nearly the same height, but with a more rounded and ir-
regular summit. The town of Ternate is concealed from view till we enter between the two is-
lands, when it is discovered stretching along the shore at the very base of the mountain. Its
situation is fine, and there are grand views on every side. Close opposite is the rugged
promontory and beautiful volcanic cone of Tidore; to the east is the long mountainous coast
of Gilolo, terminated towards the north by a group of three lofty volcanic peaks, while imme-
diately behind the town rises the huge mountain, sloping easily at first and covered with thick
groves of fruit trees, but soon becoming steeper, and furrowed with deep gullies. Almost to
the summit, whence issue perpetually faint wreaths of smoke, it is clothed with vegetation,
and looks calm and beautiful, although beneath are hidden fires which occasionally burst
forth in lava-streams, but more frequently make their existence known by the earthquakes
which have many times devastated the town.
I brought letters of introduction to Mr. Duivenboden, a native of Ternate, of an ancient
Dutch family, but who was educated in England, and speaks our language perfectly. He was a
very rich man, owned half the town, possessed many ships, and above a hundred slaves. He
was moreover, well educated, and fond of literature and science—a phenomenon in these re-
gions. He was generally known as the king of Ternate, from his large property and great in-
fluence with the native Rajahs and their subjects. Through his assistance I obtained a house,
rather ruinous, but well adapted to my purpose, being close to the town, yet with a free outlet
to the country and the mountain. A few needful repairs were soon made, some bamboo fur-
niture and other necessaries obtained, and after a visit to the Resident and Police Magistrate I
found myself an inhabitant of the earthquake-tortured island of Ternate, and able to look
about me and lay down the plan of my campaign for the ensuing year. I retained this house
