Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
XIX
Banda
( DECEMBER 1857, MAY 1859, APRIL 1861)
The Dutch mail steamer in which I travelled from Macassar to Banda and Amboyna was a
roomy and comfortable vessel, although it would only go six miles an hour in the finest
weather. As there were but three passengers besides myself, we had abundance of room, and I
was able to enjoy a voyage more than I had ever done before. The arrangements are some-
what different from those on board English or Indian steamers. There are no cabin servants,
as every cabin passenger invariably brings his own, and the ship's stewards attend only to the
saloon and the eating department. At six A.M. a cup of tea or coffee is provided for those who
like it. At seven to eight there is a light breakfast of tea, eggs, sardines, &c. At ten, Madeira
gin and bitters are brought on deck as a whet for the substantial eleven o'clock breakfast,
which differs from a dinner only in the absence of soup. Cups of tea and coffee are brought
round at three P.M. ; bitters, &c. again at five, a good dinner with beer and claret at half-past
six, concluded by tea and coffee at eight. Between whiles beer and sodawater are supplied
when called for, so there is no lack of little gastronomical excitements to while away the tedi-
um of a sea voyage.
Our first stopping place was Coupang, at the west end of the large island of Timor. We then
coasted along that island for several hundred miles, having always a view of hilly ranges
covered with scanty vegetation, rising ridge behind ridge to the height of six or seven thou-
sand feet. Turning off towards Banda we passed Pulo-Cambing, Wetter, and Roma, all of
which are desolate and barren volcanic islands, almost as uninviting as Aden, and offering a
strange contrast to the usual verdure and luxuriance of the Archipelago. In two days more we
reached the volcanic group of Banda, covered with an unusually dense and brilliant green ve-
getation, indicating that we had passed beyond the range of the hot dry winds from the plains
of Central Australia. Banda is a lovely little spot, its three islands enclosing a secure harbour
from whence no outlet is visible, and with water so transparent, that living corals and even
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