Travel Reference
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ted, saying, 'I must have a good one, and near to the forest.' The next he showed me suited
very well, so I told him to see that it was emptied the next day, for that the day after I should
come and occupy it.
On the day mentioned, as I was not quite ready to go, I sent my two Macassar boys with
brooms to sweep out the house thoroughly. They returned in the evening and told me, that
when they got there the house was inhabited, and not a single article removed. However, on
hearing they had come to clean and take possession, the occupants made a move, but with a
good deal of grumbling, which made me feel rather uneasy as to how the people generally
might take my intrusion into their village. The next morning we took our baggage on three
pack-horses, and, after a few break-downs, arrived about noon at our destination.
After getting all my things set straight, and having made a hasty meal, I determined if
possible to make friends with the people. I therefore sent for the owner of the house and as
many of his acquaintances as liked to come, to have a 'bitchara,' or talk. When they were all
seated, I gave them a little tobacco all round, and having my boy Baderoon for interpreter,
tried to explain to them why I came there; that I was very sorry to turn them out of the
house, but that the Rajah had ordered it rather than build a new one, which was what I had
asked for, and then placed five silver rupees in the owner's hand as one month's rent. I then
assured them that my being there would be a benefit to them, as I should buy their eggs and
fowls and fruit; and if their children would bring me shells and insects, of which I showed
them specimens, they also might earn a good many coppers. After all this had been fully ex-
plained to them, with a long talk and discussion between every sentence, I could see that I
had made a favourable impression; and that very afternoon, as if to test my promise to buy
even miserable little snail-shells, a dozen children came one after another, bringing me a
few specimens each of a small Helix, for which they duly received 'coppers,' and went
away amazed but rejoicing.
A few days' exploration made me well acquainted with the surrounding country. I was a
long way from the road in the forest which I had first visited, and for some distance round
my house were old clearings and cottages. I found a few good butterflies, but beetles were
very scarce, and even rotten timber and newly-felled trees (generally so productive) here
produced scarcely anything. This convinced me that there was not a sufficient extent of
forest in the neighbourhood to make the place worth staying at long, but it was too late now
to think of going further, as in about a month the wet season would begin; so I resolved to
stay here and get what was to be had. Unfortunately, after a few days I became ill with a low
fever which produced excessive lassitude and disinclination to all exertion. In vain I endeav-
oured to shake it off; all I could do was to stroll quietly each day for an hour about the gar-
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