Travel Reference
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wings delicately grained with white, and bordered by a row of large spots of the most brilli-
ant satiny yellow. The body was marked with shaded spots of white, yellow, and fiery or-
ange, while the head and thorax were intense black. On the under-side the lower wings were
satiny white, with the marginal spots half black and half yellow. I gazed upon my prize with
extreme interest, as I at first thought it was quite a new species. It proved however to be a
variety of Ornithoptera remus, one of the rarest and most remarkable species of this highly
esteemed group. I also obtained several other new and pretty butterflies. When we arrived at
our lodging-house, being particularly anxious about my insect treasures, I suspended the
box from a bamboo on which I could detect no sign of ants, and then began skinning some
of my birds. During my work I often glanced at my precious box to see that no intruders had
arrived, till after a longer spell of work than usual I looked again, and saw to my horror that
a column of small red ants were descending the string and entering the box. They were
already busy at work at the bodies of my treasures, and another half-hour would have seen
my whole day's collection destroyed. As it was, I had to take every insect out, clean them
thoroughly as well as the box, and then seek for a place of safety for them. As the only ef-
fectual one I begged a plate and a basin from my host, filled the former with water, and
standing the latter in it placed my box on the top, and then felt secure for the night; a few
inches of clean water or oil being the only barrier these terrible pests are not able to pass.
On returning home to Mamájam (as my house was called) I had a slight return of inter-
mittent fever, which kept me some days indoors. As soon as I was well, I again went to Goa,
accompanied by Mr. Mesman, to beg the Rajah's assistance in getting a small house built for
me near the forest. We found him at a cock-fight in a shed near his palace, which however
he immediately left to receive us, and walked with us up an inclined plane of boards which
serves for stairs to his house. This was large, well built, and lofty, with bamboo floor and
glass windows. The greater part of it seemed to be one large hall divided by the supporting
posts. Near a window sat the Queen, squatting on a rough wooden arm-chair, chewing the
everlasting sirih and betel-nut, while a brass spittoon by her side and a sirih-box in front
were ready to administer to her wants. The Rajah seated himself opposite to her in a similar
chair, and a similar spittoon and sirih-box were held by a little boy squatting at his side. Two
other chairs were brought for us. Several young women, some the Rajah's daughters, others
slaves, were standing about; a few were working at frames making sarongs, but most of
them were idle.
And here I might (if I followed the example of most travellers) launch out into a glowing
description of the charms of these damsels, the elegant costumes they wore, and the gold
and silver ornaments with which they were adorned. The jacket or body of purple gauze
