Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
which were the most abundant insects in the country lanes. Among these was a new species,
which I have named Pieris tamar.
Leaving Bileling, a pleasant sail of two days brought us to Ampanam in the island of
Lombock, where I proposed to remain till I could obtain a passage to Macassar. We enjoyed
superb views of the twin volcanoes of Bali and Lombock, each about eight thousand feet
high, which form magnificent objects at sunrise and sunset, when they rise out of the mists
and clouds that surround their bases, glowing with the rich and changing tints of these the
most charming moments in a tropical day.
The bay or roadstead of Ampanam is extensive, and being at this season sheltered from
the prevalent south-easterly winds, was as smooth as a lake. The beach of black volcanic
sand is very steep, and there is at all times a heavy surf upon it, which during spring-tides
increases to such an extent that it is often impossible for boats to land, and many serious ac-
cidents have occurred. Where we lay anchored, about a quarter of a mile from the shore, not
the slightest swell was perceptible, but on approaching nearer undulations began, which rap-
idly increased, so as to form rollers which toppled over on to the beach at regular intervals
with a noise like thunder. Sometimes this surf increases suddenly during perfect calms, to as
great a force and fury as when a gale of wind is blowing, beating to pieces all boats that may
not have been hauled sufficiently high upon the beach, and carrying away incautious nat-
ives. This violent surf is probably in some way dependent on the swell of the great southern
ocean, and the violent currents that flow through the Straits of Lombock. These are so un-
certain that vessels preparing to anchor in the bay are sometimes suddenly swept away into
the straits, and are not able to get back again for a fortnight! What seamen call the 'ripples'
are also very violent in the straits, the sea appearing to boil and foam and dance like the rap-
ids below a cataract; vessels are swept about helpless, and small ones are occasionally
swamped in the finest weather and under the brightest skies.
I felt considerably relieved when all my boxes and myself had passed in safety through
the devouring surf, which the natives look upon with some pride, saying, that 'their sea is al-
ways hungry, and eats up everything it can catch.' I was kindly received by Mr. Carter, an
Englishman, who is one of the Bandars or licensed traders of the port, who offered me hos-
pitality and every assistance during my stay. His house, storehouses, and offices were in a
yard surrounded by a tall bamboo fence, and were entirely constructed of bamboo with a
thatch of grass, the only available building materials. Even these were now very scarce, ow-
ing to the great consumption in rebuilding the place since the great fire some months before,
which in an hour or two had destroyed every building in the town.
