Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
about four miles over the Megamendong Pass, is at the foot of the mountain. A small coun-
try house for the Governor-General and a branch of the Botanic Gardens are situated here,
the keeper of which accommodated me with a bed for a night. There are many beautiful
trees and shrubs planted here, and large quantities of European vegetables are grown for the
Governor-General's table. By the side of a little torrent that bordered the garden, quantities
of orchids were cultivated, attached to the trunks of trees, or suspended from the branches,
forming an interesting open-air orchid-house. As I intended to stay two or three nights on
the mountain I engaged two coolies to carry my baggage, and with my two hunters we star-
ted early the next morning. The first mile was over open country, which brought us to the
forest that covers the whole mountain from a height of about 5,000 feet. The next mile or
two was a tolerably steep ascent through a grand virgin forest, the trees being of great size,
and the undergrowth consisting of fine herbaceous plants, tree-ferns, and shrubby vegeta-
tion. I was struck by the immense number of ferns that grew by the side of the road. Their
variety seemed endless, and I was continually stopping to admire some new and interesting
forms. I could now well understand what I had been told by the gardener, that 300 species
had been found on this one mountain. A little before noon we reached the small plateau of
Tjiburong, at the foot of the steeper part of the mountain, where there is a plank-house for
the accommodation of travellers. Close by is a picturesque waterfall and a curious cavern,
which I had not time to explore. Continuing our ascent the road became narrow, rugged and
steep, winding zigzag up the cone, which is covered with irregular masses of rock, and over-
grown with a dense luxuriant but less lofty vegetation. We passed a torrent of water which is
not much lower than the boiling point, and has a most singular appearance as it foams over
its rugged bed, sending up clouds of steam, and often concealed by the overhanging herbage
of ferns and lycopodia, which here thrive with more luxuriance than elsewhere.
At about 7,500 feet we came to another hut of open bamboos, at a place called Kandang
Badak, or 'Rhinoceros-field,' which we were going to make our temporary abode. Here was
a small clearing, with abundance of tree-ferns and some young plantations of Cinchona. As
there was now a thick mist and drizzling rain, I did not attempt to go on to the summit that
evening, but made two visits to it during my stay, as well as one to the active crater of Ge-
deh. This is a vast semicircular chasm, bounded by black perpendicular walls of rock, and
surrounded by miles of rugged scoria-covered slopes. The crater itself is not very deep. It
exhibits patches of sulphur and variously-coloured volcanic products, and emits from sever-
al vents continual streams of smoke and vapour. The extinct cone of Pangerango was to me
more interesting. The summit is an irregular undulating plain with a low bordering ridge,
and one deep lateral chasm. Unfortunately there was perpetual mist and rain either above or
