Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Ancient bas-relief
The specimen I had obtained was a small one, about two feet high, weighing perhaps a
hundredweight; and the next day we had it conveyed to Modjo-kerto to await my return to
Sourabaya. Having decided to stay some time at Wonosalem, on the lower slopes of the Ar-
juna Mountain, where I was informed I should find forest and plenty of game, I had first to
obtain a recommendation from the Assistant Resident to the Regent, and then an order from
the Regent to the Waidono; and when after a week's delay I arrived with my baggage and
men at Modjo-agong, I found them all in the midst of a five days' feast, to celebrate the cir-
cumcision of the Waidono's younger brother and cousin, and had a small room in an out-
house given me to stay in. The courtyard and the great open reception-shed were full of nat-
ives coming and going and making preparations for a feast which was to take place at mid-
night, to which I was invited, but preferred going to bed. A native band, or Gamelang, was
playing almost all the evening, and I had a good opportunity of seeing the instruments and
musicians. The former are chiefly gongs of various sizes, arranged in sets of from eight to
twelve, on low wooden frames. Each set is played by one performer with one or two drum-
sticks. There are also some very large gongs, played singly or in pairs, and taking the place
of our drums and kettledrums. Other instruments are formed by broad metallic bars, suppor-
ted on strings stretched across frames; and others again of strips of bamboo similarly placed
and producing the highest notes. Besides these there were a flute and a curious two-stringed
violin, requiring in all twenty-four performers. There was a conductor, who led off and regu-
lated the time, and each performer took his part, coming in occasionally with a few bars so
as to form a harmonious combination. The pieces played were long and complicated, and
some of the players were mere boys, who took their parts with great precision. The general
effect was very pleasing, but, owing to the similarity of most of the instruments, more like a
gigantic musical box than one of our bands; and in order to enjoy it thoroughly it is neces-
sary to watch the large number of performers who are engaged in it. The next morning,
while I was waiting for the men and horses who were to take me and my baggage to my des-
tination, the two lads, who were about fourteen years old, were brought out, clothed in a
sarong from the waist downwards, and having the whole body covered with a yellow
powder, and profusely decked with white blossoms in wreaths, necklaces, and armlets, look-
ing at first sight very like savage brides. They were conducted by two priests to a bench
placed in front of the house in the open air, and the ceremony of circumcision was then per-
formed before the assembled crowd.
The road to Wonosalem led through a magnificent forest, in the depths of which we
passed a fine ruin of what appeared to have been a royal tomb or mausoleum. It is formed
