Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
epiphytes. The banks of the river were, however, still generally flooded, and we had some
difficulty in finding a dry spot to sleep on. Early in the morning we reached Empugnan, a
small Malay village situated at the foot of an isolated mountain which had been visible from
the mouth of the Sim¯unjon River. Beyond here the tides are not felt, and we now entered
upon a district of elevated forest, with a finer vegetation. Large trees stretch out their arms
across the stream, and the steep, earthy banks are clothed with ferns and zingiberaceous
plants.
Early in the afternoon we arrived at Tabókan, the first village of the Hill Dyaks. On an
open space near the river about twenty boys were playing at a game something like what we
call 'prisoner's base;' their ornaments of beads and brass wire and their gay-coloured ker-
chiefs and waist-cloths showing to much advantage, and forming a very pleasing sight. On
being called by Bujon, they immediately left their game to carry my things up to the 'head-
house,'—a circular building attached to most Dyak villages, and serving as a lodging for
strangers, the place for trade, the sleeping-room of the unmarried youths, and the general
council-chamber. It is elevated on lofty posts, has a large fireplace in the middle and win-
dows in the roof all round, and forms a very pleasant and comfortable abode. In the evening
it was crowded with young men and boys, who came to look at me. They were mostly fine
young fellows, and I could not help admiring the simplicity and elegance of their costume.
Their only dress is the long 'chawat,' or waist-cloth, which hangs down before and behind.
It is generally of blue cotton, ending in three broad bands of red, blue, and white. Those who
can afford it wear a handkerchief on the head, which is either red, with a narrow border of
gold lace, or of three colours, like the 'chawat.' The large flat moon-shaped brass earrings,
the heavy necklace of white or black beads, rows of brass rings on the arms and legs, and
armlets of white shell, all serve to relieve and set off the pure reddish brown skin and jet-
black hair. Add to this the little pouch containing materials for betel-chewing, and a long
slender knife, both invariably worn at the side, and you have the every-day dress of the
young Dyak gentleman.
