Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
There's a long, steep climb (8km) through beech forest between Ammarnäs and Aigert, but
at the top you are rewarded with an impressive waterfall.
To reach Syter, cross the wetlands using the network of bridges, stopping at the hut by
Tärnasjö lake for a spell in the sauna. The hike up to Syter peak (1768m) from Syter hut is
greatly recommended and the view on the way down to Hemavan, taking in Norway's Ok-
stindarnas glaciers, is particularly spectacular.
The STF has a hostel at
Hemavan
, and five huts en route at Aigert, Serve, Tärnasjö,
Syter and Viterskalet.
Karesuando
0981 / Pop 303
The one-elk town of Karesuando (Gárasavvon in Sami) is the northernmost church village
in Sweden, and it feels that way: utterly remote and lonely. This Sami reindeer-herder
community revels in the romance of extremes: the midnight sun shines here from late May
to mid-July, but in winter the temperature hits -50°C. Karesuando's frontier feel is reflec-
ted in the four languages spoken by the locals (sometimes all at once): Swedish, Finnish,
Northern Sami and Norwegian.
Karesuando boasts Sweden's northernmost
church
( 10am-2pm & 3-6pm mid-Jun-Aug)
(1816); the wooden altar sculpture represents local revivalist preacher Lars Levi Laestadi-
us. Nearby
Vita Huset
(guided tours Skr25; 7am-3pm Mon-Fri)
showcases evocative photos
depicting Finnish civilians fleeing the retreating German forces in 1944; many of the
refugees were rowed to safety across the river by local Olga Raattamaa. West of the tourist
office is
Laestadius Pörte
( 24hr)
, the compact log cabin that was home to Lars Levi
Laestadius, his wife and their 14 children (yes, it's rather like squeezing a dozen people in-
to a Mini) between 1826 and 1849.
When we visited, both the hostel and the hotel had closed down, so you a) pitch a tent
beside the mosquito-plagued river at
Karesuando Camping
( 070-605 1124, 0981-201 39;
www.karesuandokamping.blogspot.com
; Laestadiusvägen 153; sites/cabins Skr140/500 ; Jun-
Aug)
, b) cross the bridge to Finland's marginally more happenin' Kaaresuvanto or c) stop
for a burger or an Asian-style fry-up at the
Arctic Lunch & Grill
(mains Skr45-75;
11am-6pm)
and then make tracks south towards Kiruna or east along the wonderfully un-
peopled E400 that skirts the Finnish border en route to Pajala.
