Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Getting There & Away
Express buses 840 and 841 run hourly from Göteborg to Lysekil via Uddevalla (Skr148,
one hour 50 minutes). You can also take one of the regular passenger ferries from
Fiskebäckskil, just south of Lysekil (15 minutes).
Smögen
0523 / Pop 1329
Another seaside star, Smögen sports a buzzing waterside boardwalk, rickety fishermen's
houses, and steep steps leading up into a labyrinth of lovingly restored cottages and pretty
summer gardens.
Dubbed Smögenbryggan and famous throughout Sweden as a hip, youthful destination,
the boardwalk heaves with bars and shops around the harbour; head in early or out of sea-
son if you're seeking solitude. Fishing boats unload their catches of prawns, lobsters and
fish at the harbour. You can score some uberfresh shellfish if you get to the small fish
auction ( www.smogens-fiskauktion.com ; Fiskhall;
8am Mon-Fri, plus 4pm Thu) early enough:
the big one happens online these days.
From Smögen harbour, the Hållö Färjan ( 0706-91 36 33; www.hallofarjan.se ; adult/under
12yr return Skr90/45) leaves every half-hour or so from 9.30am in summer for the nature re-
serve on the nearby island of Hållö . The island's smooth granite boulders, bizarre potholes
and deep fissures are the result of thousands of years of glacial carving. Perched on top is a
red-and-white 19th-century lighthouse, as well as a small church (ask at the hostel if you
want to take a peek inside). Terns and other seabirds nest in the surrounding oat grass, and
delicate wild pansies dot the island. It's pristine and remote, an ideal haunt for those keen
to capture the true essence of Bohuslän. Utpost Hållö is the island's gloriously out-of-the-
way hostel.
SVIF-affiliated Makrillvikens Vandrarhem ( 0523-315 65; www.makrillviken.se ;
Makrillgatan; dm/d Skr300/800; ) , in the yellow former spa bathing house with smashing
views of the archipelago, is a sterling, hugely popular budget choice - 500m from the
boardwalk crowds, bathing spots just metres from your room and an old seaside sauna for
guest use. For more watery action, there are canoes for hire. Book ahead!
Hotel Smögens Havsbad (
0523-66 84 50; www.smogenshavsbad.se ; Hotellgatan 26; s/d
from Skr1095/1395;
) is an architectural haystack with a rather tacked-on-looking
 
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