Travel Reference
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Tiny, herbivorous Lao Wai does sinfully good things to tofu and vegetables, hence the
faithful regulars. Everything here is vegan and gluten free. A different lunch special is
served each weekday; the dinner menu is more expansive, offering virtuous treats like
Sichuan-style smoked tofu with shitake, chillies, garlic shoots, snow peas and black beans.
Caffé Nero
CAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nerostockholm.se ; Roslagsgatan 4; dagens lunch Skr100, mains
Skr100-145; 7am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun; Odenplan, Rådmansgatan)
Packed with local hipsters during the busy lunch hour, this stylish but casual neighbour-
hood cafe serves substantial meals (fish, pasta, salads) at good prices, plus sublime coffee
drinks and pastries. There's also a Saturday brunch from noon to 3pm. Next door is a sleek
bar-restaurant, Buco Nero, open late with DJs and an upscale dinner menu (mains Skr195
to Skr295).
Grands Verandan SWEDISH
(Grand Hôtel Stockholm; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 08-679 35 86; www.grandhotel.se ; Södra Blasie-
holmshamnen 8; smörgåsbord Skr445, mains Skr185-275;
noon-3pm & 6-10pm Mon-Fri, 1-4pm &
6-10pm Sat & Sun; Kungsträdgården)
Head here, inside the Grand Hôtel, for the famous smörgåsbord - especially during the
Christmas holidays, when it becomes even more elaborate (reservations recommended).
Arrive early for a window seat and tuck into both hot and cold Swedish staples, including
gravadlax with almond potatoes, herring, meatballs and lingonberry jam. It's like a belt-
busting crash course in classic Nordic flavours.
Operakällaren FRENCH, SWEDISH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 08-676 58 00; www.operakallaren.se ; Karl XII's Torg 10; tasting menus
Skr995-2750; 6-10pm Tue-Sat, closed mid-Jul-mid-Aug; Kungsträdgården)
Inside Stockholm's show-off Opera House, the century-old Operakällaren is a major gast-
ronomic event. Decadent chandeliers, golden mirrors and exquisitely carved ceilings set
the scene for French-meets-fusion adventures like seared scallops with caramel, cauli-
flower purée, pata negra ham and brown-butter emulsion. Book at least two weeks ahead.
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