Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
WORTH A TRIP
HALLEGÅRD
It might be right off the tourist radar, but artisanal charcuterie
Hallegård
( 56 47 02 47;
www.hallegaard.dk
;
Aspevej 3, Østermarie; tapas plate Dkr150; 10am-6pm late Jun-mid-Sep, short-
er hrs rest of yr) is a darling of Danish locavores. Indeed, many of Copenhagen's top chefs
procure their meats from this bucolic farmhouse, hidden away down a country lane 8km
southwest of Svaneke. It's run by the affable Jørgen Toft Christensen, his wife Lis Frede-
riksen, and their family. Together they have built quite a reputation for both carnivorous
concoctions, both traditional and modern. Among the classics is the 'Rita' sausage, made
with pork, beef, cherry wine and dried onions. According to Jørgen's son-in-law, Christian,
this is Hallegård's 'political sausage', named after a former minister of agriculture's wife,
who offered the recipe and who still drops in for the odd 'quality control'.
In all, Hallegård produces around 30 types of charcuterie, some of which are smoked in
traditional brick ovens. In the case of its cold smoked ham (a Bornholm 'prosciutto' of
sorts), the smoking takes four to six months, with the hams stored in former WWII
bunkers located nearby.
Peckish? The farmhouse deli/cafe offers a 'tapas' plate with a selection of its products,
tailored to your taste buds. Pair it with a glass of the organic house wine (Dkr40) and you
have one of Bornholm's best feeds.
To get here from Svaneke, head southwest along Korshøje, turning right into Ibskervej
at the 'T' intersection, then left into Lyrsbyvej (look out for the 'Hallegård' sign) and left
again at Aspevej. Keep in mind that opening times in the low season can vary so it's a
good idea to call ahead.
Nexø
pop 3685
Nexø (Neksø) is Bornholm's second-largest town and like Rønne it makes up for its com-
parative lack of aesthetic charm with a bustling nature. It has a large modern harbour
where fishing vessels unload their catch. The town and harbour were reconstructed after
being destroyed by Soviet bombing in WWII. Despite taking a back seat to more touristy
towns such as Gudhjem and Svaneke, Nexø has its fair share of picturesque buildings.
