Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Beyond New Nordic cult restaurants like Noma, Geranium and Kadeau, contemporary
Danish innovation is also driving a growing number of casual, midrange eateries, from
Höst and Manfreds og Vin, to Kødbyens Fiskebar and Kadeau's baby brother, Pony.
Yet it's not all sea buckthorn, skyr (strained yoghurt) curd and pickled quail eggs, with
old-school Danish fare still a major player on the city's tables. Indeed, tucking into classics
such as frikadeller (meatballs), sild (pickled herring) and the iconic Danish open sandwich
(smørrebrød) at institutions such as Schønnemann is an integral part of the Copenhagen
experience.
Keep in mind that the Danes are not Mediterranean, meaning that if you like to eat late,
you'll have trouble finding a place to accommodate you after about 10pm. That said,
Copenhageners love to eat out, so make sure to reserve a table at popular nosh spots, espe-
cially later in the week. Many restaurants now offer easy online reservations on their web-
sites.
SØLLERØD KRO
Søllerød Kro MODERN DANISH
( GOOGLE MAP ; 45 80 25 05; www.soelleroed-kro.dk ; Søllerødvej 35, Holte; 2-/3-course lunch
Dkr375/475, 4-/6-course dinner Dkr775/995; noon-2.30pm & 6-9.30pm Wed-Sun)
Not all of Copenhagen's Michelin stars are inner-city dwellers. One of them lives in Holte,
an unassuming outer suburb 19km north of the city centre. We're talking about Søllerød
Kro, a one-star Michelin restaurant set in a beautiful 17th-century thatched-roof inn. The
kitchen's creations are nothing short of extraordinary, pushing modern Danish creativity
to new, enlightened heights.
Here, dehydrated artichokes might be paired with hazelnut milk & smoke, while roasted
foie gras could come with beets and an elderberry jus. The balancing of flavours and tex-
tures is quite often breathtaking, as are the wine pairings for each course.
Yet, despite the fame, adulation and classically chic interiors, Søllerød Kro keeps its
feet firmly on the ground, ditching pomp and attitude for a genuine hospitality that's as
much a highlight as its degustation menus.
To get here from Copenhagen, catch S-train (Line E) north to Holte station, from where
bus 195 will drop you off 150m from the restaurant (tell the driver you're going to Søllerød
Kro). Journey time is around 35 minutes.
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