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Wednesday, July 20, before dawn, Astoria, Oregon
I'm lying in bed as I write this, consciously watching my fingers on the wireless key-
board I bought to go with my iPad. It's not surprising that I can't sleep. In a couple of
hours I have to begin living up to all the bravado of my newspaper stories and begin
riding a fucking bicycle across the United States.
Despite Astoria's status as a bike mecca, there is no consensus on the best way to get
out of town. U.S. Route 30, which follows the Columbia and heads toward Portland, ac-
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