Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
between the ocean and mountains whose summits remain flecked with snow even into
summer.
The pick of the views from the southern end come as the road climbs after the Låvong-
Nesna ferry crossing. Further on, as the road nears Mo i Rana, it's a dramatic run in its
own right alongside pretty Ranafjord to Stokkvågen, soon after which you can roam
around the Nazi coastal fort of Grønsvik , one of more than 350 defences built along Nor-
way's coastline. Around 1km beyond the fort, a lookout offers more stunning views.
The route crosses the Arctic Circle somewhere along the hour-long Kilboghamn-Jek-
tvik ferry crossing. The further north you go, the more spectacular the views, from the
snowbound mountains of the Svartisen ice sheet to islands, islets and skerries too numer-
ous to count. Along the way, sea eagles circle above you and spring wildflowers show off
their best in the relatively mild climate, warmed by the very last of the Gulf Stream's flow.
For long stretches the highway rolls right beside the water.
The best views of Svartisen come after the Ågskardet-Forøy ferry, with dramatic views
of the glacier tongues dropping down off the icefields towards the water from the road
alongside Holandsfjorden.
To get even closer, a ferry ( 47 99 40 30; adult/child return Nkr120/60) makes the
10-minute trip across Holandsfjorden from the small settlement of Holand roughly hourly.
You can hire a bike (three/six hours Nkr50/75) to travel the 3km gravel track between the
jetty and the tip of the Engebreen glacial tongue.
A 15-minute walk from the ferry landing takes you to the Svartisen Turistsenter (
75 75 10 00; Jun-mid-Aug) with its cafe, shop and restaurant. It does guided one- to two-
hour glacier walks (Nkr500) and longer four- to five-hour treks (Nkr950) from the end of
Engabrevatnet lake. Reserve in advance. You can also slog independently up the steep
route along the glacier's edge to the Tåkeheimen hut (1171m), near the summit of Helge-
landsbukken (1454m). Follow the 'T' markers and allow eight hours out and back. The
Turistsenter can also advise on cabin accommodation in the area.
If you've time to spare, consider breaking the journey at Furøy Camping ( 75 75 05
25; www.furoycamp.no ; Forøy; tent/caravan site Nkr180/200, cabin Nkr500-900) . Aside from the
magnificent views of the Svartisen glacier across the fjord, this place has a five-star kids'
playground (with trampoline and mini-cabins) and a hot tub. It's barely 1km from the
Ågskardet-Føroy ferry terminal, but do reserve your cabin in advance; a trail of vehicles
heads from the ferry towards reception in summer.
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