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even nicer from a hammock in the garden). Rooms are sweetly furnished with local
touches.
Everything you'd expect in terms of self-catering facilities are provided, as well as a
small organic juice factory, a croquet course, lambs to pet and free bikes to borrow. Eplet
is run by Agnethe and Trond Henrik: Trond is an environmental geologist, seasoned trav-
eller, climber and serious long-distance cyclist. They can let you in on the best cycle routes
and walking trails around, including the extraordinary Molden hike.
Walaker Hotell HOTEL
( 57 68 20 80; www.walaker.com ; d Nkr2250-2700; May-Sep; )
This venerable, incredibly atmospheric place, sitting right beside the fjord, is Norway's
oldest family hotel. In the hands of nine generations of the Nitters, back to 1640, you'll
probably be greeted by Ole Henrik, the current owner, himself. Spread between three
buildings, the main one has evocatively decorated (but unfussy) historical rooms with an-
tique wallpaper, and two have claw-foot baths.
The Tingstova wing, the oldest, has four beautiful historical rooms, with stunning hand
painted furniture. Standard rooms, in the '60s annex, are comfortable but unremarkable.
Not least of the hotel's pleasures is its lovely lawn and garden of lilac, roses, apple and
cherry trees, which is available to all.
Urnes
Urnes Stave Church CHURCH
(adult/child Nkr80/45; 10.30am-5.45pm May-Sep)
Norway's oldest preserved place of worship is a Unesco World Heritage Site. Directly
across the fjord from Solvorn, it gazes out over Lustrafjord. The original church was built
around 1070, while the majority of today's structure was constructed a century later. High-
lights are elaborate wooden carvings - animals locked in struggle, stylised intertwined
bodies and abstract motifs - on the north wall, all recycled from the original church, and
the simple crucifixion carving, set above the chancel wall.
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