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Figure 3.10. Shaman inside the Opy, the Guarani prayer house. By Mariano Tupã Mirim,
2000.
I had seen Guarani kids from the neighboring Aguape'u reservation proceed in a
similar way, blowing smoke on improvised dolls - that time handmade out of old
socks, shoelaces and other materials - at the Cemitério da Igualdade. One of the kids
told me he was blowing smoke on Ilson, the graveyard digger, but I did not have the
chance to carry on the conversation because of a funeral for another Guarani child
that was being held at the spot. At this point, Mizael's mother, Zeferina, stepped
outside her doorway and reminded the kids it was time for the xondaro okayguá , the
daily singing and dancing ceremony Guarani kids dedicate themselves to at the opy.
Everyone wrapped the candy in their clothes and dashed up the hill towards the
opy. Zeferina explained:
They practice xondaro, which is part of the Guarani religion. It brings strength
and health to them, and they learn about Nhande Rekó. But xondaro really
is the name of a warrior. A long time ago we battled and killed our enemies.
Today the kids are learning other things related to xondaro, so they won't
forget the culture.
I asked Zeferina if many Guarani were interested in the missionaries' evangelical
teachings, to which the woman replied:
It means we respect other peoples' religions. We allow the missionaries to
come here, sing and give us presents. But the Guarani religion is sacred, we
will never let it go. The kids just adore xondaro. When they sing Christian
tunes, they are just playing ( nhe waga ).
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