Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
A MUSICAL GHOST
Leaving racing drivers out, Jean Sibelius, born in 1865 in Hämeenlinna, probably still
takes the garland of most famous Finn. Apart from his towering musical legacy, the role
he played in the cultural flowering that inspired Finnish independence makes him a le-
gend in his homeland.
Like many artists of the time, Sibelius was fascinated by mythology and forests at the
heart of Finnishness. His first major works (Kullervo,En Sagaand theKarelia Suite) were
based on theKalevalaepic, but his overtly political 1899Finlandiasymphony became a
powerful symbol of the Finnish independence struggle and is still his best-known work.
His genius lay in his ability to distill the essence of traditional forms into a tight modern
product. The best example, his masterful seventh symphony, shoehorns a powerful feel-
ing of Finnish landscape and an epic Nordic quality into a very compact package.
Before his death in 1957, at the age of 92, he had produced very little in three decades.
His missing eighth symphony is an El Dorado legend, but evidence suggests that he con-
signed it to the fire in the 1940s.
A Sibelius trail could lead from his Helsinki monument to Ainola, where he lived with
wife Aino Järnefelt (sister of the painter Eero), and their six daughters, his birthplace in
Hämeenlinna and the excellent Sibelius Museum in Turku. Festivals devoted to Sibelius in-
clude at Loviisa, where he had a summer home, and Lahti, whose symphony orchestra is
famed for its expertise in his works.
While Finland's current musical pre-eminence owes much to his legacy, younger musi-
cians also sometimes feel that it can be difficult to escape the shadow of Sibelius, whose
lofty ghost still paces the forests and lakeshores of his beloved land.
Sleeping
Aulanko Camping CAMPGROUND, COTTAGES
( GOOGLE MAP ; 03-675-9772; www.aulankocamping.fi ; Aulangonheikkiläntie 168;tent/van site in-
cl 4 people €20/29, cottages €90-100; )
By the main entrance to Aulanko park, this offers good cottages and great grassy camp-
sites on a spectacular lakeshore. There's a cafe, restaurant and sauna.
Hotelli Emilia HOTEL
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