Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
NORTHERN & SOUTHERN ARCHIPELAGOS
Åland's tiny granite outer islets are strewn with silver birches, and offer great walking,
cycling and kayaking and winter ice skating. Bring cash as none of the islands have ATMs.
Fuel is limited, so fill up before travelling here.
The northern and southern archipelagos are served by the archipelago ferries .
NORTHERN ARCHIPELAGO
Little-visited Kumlinge ( www.kumlinge.ax ) , population 343, is a haven of peace. Its biggest
attraction is a walking path from the Remmarina guest harbour to the beautiful church
Sankta Anna Kyrka ( 040-031-1805; 10am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat early Jun-early Aug),
2km north of Kumlinge village, with astonishing 500-year-old Franciscan-style paintings.
The best place to stay is Hasslebo Gästhem ( 0457-570-0834; www.hasslebo.com ; tent sites
€8 plus per person €4, s/d/f €50/60/100; Jun-Aug; ), 3km outside Kumlinge village. It
has a green emphasis including bio-toilets, solar power and organic breakfasts (with
homemade jam; €9), as well as relaxing massages (€40) and bike hire (€9).
Ferries on the route between Hummelvik (Värdö) and Torsholma (Brändö) stop at Kum-
linge (foot passenger/bicycle/car free/€4/27, 80 minutes).
Brändö ( www.brando.ax ) municipality, population 478, is composed of over 1180 islands.
The core group of Brändö, Torsholma, Åva and Jurmo are connected by free ferries and
bridges, with a signposted bike route running from Torsholma harbour north across the
main island to Åva. Brändö's landmark church, Sankt Jakobs Kyrka ( 10am-9pm May-
Aug), is an example of the whitewashed style. On Jurmo, a 10-minute ferry from Långö,
you can ride Icelandic horses at Talli Perla ( 050-465-4742; www.talliperla.com ;2-day pack-
ages €240), which does a two-day ride-and-accommodation package.
Campground Brändö Stugby ( 018-56221; http://home.aland.net/lameta ;tent sites €9 plus
per person €3, cabins €50-80; May-mid-Oct; ) has log cabins, a shop-cafe with wi-fi and
an extensive range of beer, barbecues and rowing boats for hire. Modest Hotell Gullvivan
( 018-56350; www.gullvivan.ax ; s/d €70/104, cabins €88-104; ) sits on Björnholma island,
with a restaurant and minigolf as well as hire boats and fishing gear. Modern four-person
ensuite cabins have kitchenettes.
Organic steaks from Jurmo's long-haired highland cattle, seasoned with island herbs,
are the speciality of the wonderful Café Kvarnen ( 040-506-4777; www.jurmo.ax ; mains
€13-27;
10am-10pm mid-Jun-mid-Aug, 10am-9pm mid-Aug-late Aug) near the pier, along with
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