Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The most scenic spots on the Ross are hidden away on the south coast. If you're
approaching the Ross from Craignure, the first of these (to Lochbuie) is signposted
even before you've negotiated the splendid Highland pass of Glen More , which brings
you to the Ross itself.
1
Lochbuie
he road to Lochbuie skirts Loch Spelve, a sheltered sea loch, followed by freshwater
Loch Uisg, which is fringed by woodland, before emerging, after eight miles, on a
fertile plain beside the sea. The bay here is rugged and wide, and overlooked by the
handsome peak of Ben Buie (2352ft), to the northwest. Hidden behind a patch of
Scots pine are the ivy-strewn ruins of Moy Castle , an old MacLean stronghold; in
the fields to the north is one of the few stone circles in the west of Scotland, dating
from the second century BC, the tallest of its stones about 6ft high. A popular and
fairly easy walk is the five-mile hike west from Lochbuie along the coastal path to
Carsaig (see below).
Carsaig
A rickety single-track road heads south four miles from Lochbuie to Carsaig , which
enjoys an idyllic setting, looking south out to Colonsay, Islay and Jura. Most folk come
here either to walk east to Lochbuie, or west under the cliffs, to the Nuns' Cave , where
nuns from Iona are alleged to have hidden during the Reformation, and then, after
four miles or so, at Malcolm's Point, the spectacular Carsaig Arches , formed by eroded
sea-caves, which are linked to basalt cliffs.
Bunessan
From Carsaig, the main road continues for another twelve miles to Bunessan , the
largest village on the peninsula, roughly two-thirds of the way along the Ross. Just
beyond the Argyll Arms Hotel , drop in at Ardalanish Weavers (daily 10am-5pm; free;
T
01681 700265, W ardalanish.com), where beautiful, durable organic tweed is
produced on Victorian looms originally from Torosay Castle. The tweed is snapped up
by high-end high-street stores, and is used for the elegant couture collection displayed
in the small shop; you can also buy smaller items such as scarves and balls of wool. A
couple of miles out of Bunessan is the wide expanse of Ardalanish Bay .
Fionnphort and around
he road ends at Fionnphort , from where ferries ply the short route across to Iona;
there's also some handy accommodation here and a superb restaurant. Around a mile
and a half south of Fionnphort are the golden sands of Fidden beach , which looks
out to the Isle of Erraid , where Robert Louis Stevenson is believed to have written
Kidnapped while staying in one of the island's cottages; Kidnapped 's hero, David
Balfour, is shipwrecked on the Torran Rocks , out to sea to the south of Erraid, beyond
which lies the remarkable, stripy Dubh Artach lighthouse , built by Stevenson's father in
1862. In the topic, Balfour spends a miserable time convinced that he's stranded on
Erraid, which can, in fact, be reached across the sands on its eastern side at low tide.
The island is now in Dutch ownership, and cared for by the Findhorn Community.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
THE ROSS OF MULL
By ferry The CalMac passenger ferry from Fionnphort to
Iona is very frequent (every 30min in summer; £4.95
return, cycles free), and takes just ten minutes.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Fidden Farm Campsite Knockvologan Road, Fidden,
Fionnphort T 01681 700427. This simple, getting-away-
from-it-all campsite has a wonderful location, with direct
access to Fidden beach. There's a Portakabin with toilets
and shower s, an d best of all, campfires are allowed.
Easter-Oct. £12 /pitch
 
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