Argyll - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 74

or leek, blue cheese and walnut strudel. No set opening
hours; reservations only.
Island Diner 53 Main St T 01688 302091, W the
tobermoryhotel.com. Highly creditable restaurant in the
Tobermory Hotel , which conjures up tempting seasonal
dishes like gin-cured Isle of Ghiga halibut and salmon.
Committed whisky fanatics, meanwhile, might care to try
the honey and malt whisky panacotta. Two courses £25.
Tues-Sun 6-10pm.

1

CAFÉS AND RESTAURANTS
An Tobar Argyll Terrace T 01688 302211, W antobar
.co.uk. Housed in a converted Victorian schoolhouse at
the top of Back Brae, this small but attractive café doubles
up as the town's principal arts centre, with a strong and
imaginative programme of visual art and live music. Mon-
Sat 10am-5pm.
Café Fish The Pier T 01688 301253, W thecafefish
.com. Stylish restaurant above the tourist o ce, sporting
an all-glass frontage with superb harbour views. Fresh
from their own boat, the day's catch is prominently
displayed in a large glass cabinet. The menu could feature
anything from linguine vongole with surf clams (£16) to
halibut with roasted red pepper and chorizo. Easter-Oct
daily 11.30am-10pm.
Ì Highland Cottage Breadalbane St T 01688
302030, W highlandcottage.co.uk. If you're going to
treat yourself, then look no further than this sublime
guesthouse restaurant, which offers an evening four-
course menu for £39. Once you've had a glass of fizz and
some canapés, dishes might include the likes of diver
scallops with cauliflower tempura and spring onion mash,

PUBS
MacGochan's Ledaig car park T 01688 302350. Heaving,
hugely popular harbourside pub just a few paces from the
distillery, with a terrific beer garden (albeit one facing a car
park), well-frequented restaurant-bar and occasional live
music to liven things up further. Daily 11am-1am.
Mishnish Main St T 01688 302009. Inside the hotel of
the same name (it's the garishly yellow building), this has
been the most popular local watering hole for many years,
with a couple of superb snugs rammed with maritime and
musical paraphernalia, and regular evenings of live music.
Daily 11am-1am.

Dervaig
The gently undulating countryside west of Tobermory, beyond the freshwater Mishnish
lochs, provides some of the most beguiling scenery on the island. Added to this, the
road out west, the B8073, is exceptionally dramatic. The only village of any size on this
side of the island is Dervaig , which nestles beside narrow Loch Chumhainn, just eight
miles southwest of Tobermory, distinguished by its unusual pencil-shaped church spire
and single street of dinky whitewashed cottages and old corrugated-iron shacks.
Dervaig has a shop, a bookshop/café and a wide choice of accommodation.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING DERVAIG

Am Birlinn Penmore T 01688 400619, W ambirlinn
.com. The cross-country road from Dervaig takes you
through Penmore where you'll find this striking wood-and-
glass-clad building serving up steaks and seafood of the
highest order: slow roasted lamb shank with apricots and
tomatoes in a chardonnay and herb sauce (£16.95) being
one of the restaurant's typically flamboyant dishes. April-
Oct Wed-Sun noon-2.30pm & 5-11pm.
The Bellachroy In the heart of Dervaig T 01688 400314,
W thebellachroy.co.uk. Rugged, early seventeenth-century
inn, with an attractive whitewashed interior serving good
seafood (mussels and frites for £11.50) and local real ales.
Daily 8.30am-11pm.

Bunkhouse Dervaig village hall T 01688 400491 or
T 07919 870664, W mull-hostel-dervaig.co.uk. Some-
what peculiarly located inside the village hall, though
certainly none the worse for it, this clean and welcoming
bunkhouse offers two bunkrooms, one sleeping six,
the other four, each with its own wetroom. Bedding is
provided. There's also a self-catering kitchen, sitting room
and washing machine. Breakfast not included. Dorms £15
Druimnacroish Hotel Two miles out of Dervaig on the
Salen road T 01688 400274, W druimnacroish.co.uk. A
lovely country house pleasantly secreted away with six amply-
sized but very reasonably priced rooms. Breakfast is ta ken i n
the conservatory overlooking the gardens. Easter-Oct. £64

Calgary
Some five miles beyond Dervaig is Calgary , once a thriving crofting community, now a
quiet glen which opens out onto Mull's finest sandy bay, backed by low-lying dunes
and machair, with wonderful views over to Coll and Tiree. Aside from the beach,
there's a super little sculpture trail which begins at the Calgary Farmhouse and winds