Argyll - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 65

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Original Green Shack Railway Pier. Long-standing and
hugely popular seafood shack that also goes by the name
of John Ogden's , serving langoustine sandwiches, scallops
in hot garlic butter (£6.95), mussels in white wine (£3.95),
oysters, prawns, cockles and much, much more. Wooden
benches available for seating. Mon-Fri & Sun 10am-
6pm, Sat 10am-8pm.

that makes the most of the uninterrupted harbour views.
Daily noon-3pm & 5.45-10pm.
Fishouse Restaurant 1 Railway Pier T 01631 563110,
W waterfrontoban.co.uk. Despite the unprepossessing
exterior, this is a great place with an open kitchen rustling
up impressive dishes primarily using scallops (Isle of
Mull scallop salad), langoustine (crispy tails) and the best
of the daily catch; for example, lobster ravioli (£13.99).
Mon-Fri & Sun noon-2.15pm & 5.30-10pm, Sat
noon-10pm.
Julie's Coffee House 33 Stafford St T 01631 565952.
The pick of the many cafés hereabouts, this is a warm,
friendly local with super home-baked treats and tasty
coffee. Tues-Sat 10am-5pm, also Mon in July & Aug.
Kitchen Garden 14 George St T 01631 566332,
W kitchengardenoban.co.uk. Impressive, central deli
with a licensed café up on the mezzanine offering breakfast
rolls, filled toasted croissants, and sweet and savoury
scones, among other delicious options. Mon-Sat 9am-
5.30pm, Sun 10am-4.30pm.

CAFÉS AND RESTAURANTS
Ì Coast 104 George St T 01631 569900, W coast
oban.com. A slick place with a metropolitan atmosphere,
serving acclaimed and original fish dishes like seared
scallops with ham-hock potato croquettes and pea purée
(£17.50). As you'd expect from one of the town's classiest
outfits, the atmosphere and service is first rate. Mon-Sat
noon-2.30pm & 5.30-10pm, Sun 5.30-10pm.
Ee-usk North Pier T 01631 565666, W eeusk.com.
Salmon mousse, sea bass with creamed leeks and savoury
mash, and glistening seafood platters (£19.95 for two) are
typical offerings here in this lively waterfront restaurant

Isle of Kerrera
One of the best places to escape from the crowds in Oban is the low-lying island of
Kerrera , which shelters Oban Bay from the worst of the westerly winds. Measuring just
five miles by two, the island is easily explored on foot. The most prominent landmark
is the Hutcheson's Monument , best viewed, appropriately enough, from the ferries
heading out of Oban, as it commemorates David Hutcheson, one of the Victorian
founders of what is now Caledonian MacBrayne. The most appealing vistas, however,
are from Kerrera's highest point, Càrn Breugach (620ft), over to Mull, the Slate Islands,
Lismore, Jura and beyond.
The ferry lands roughly halfway down the east coast, at the north end of Horseshoe
Bay , where King Alexander II died in 1249. If the weather's good and you feel like
lazing by the sea, head for the island's finest sandy beach, Slatrach Bay , on the west
coast, one mile northwest of the ferry jetty. Otherwise, there's a very rewarding trail
down to Gylen Castle , a clifftop ruin enjoying a majestic setting on the south coast,
built in 1582 by the MacDougalls and burnt to the ground by the Covenanter
General Leslie in 1647. You can head back to the ferry via the Drove Road, where
cattle from Mull and other islands were once herded to be swum across the sound to
the market in Oban.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE ISLE OF KERRERA

By ferry The passenger and bicycle ferry (summer at 8am
& 8.40am, then every 30min until the last ferry at 7pm;
winter every 1-2hr; 10min; £5 return; T 01631 563665)
crosses regularly through the day from the mainland two

miles down the Gallanach road from Oban. In summer,
bus #431 from Oban train station connects with the ferry
once a day.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Kerrera Bunkhouse T 01631 566637, W kerrera
bunkhouse.co.uk. Located in a lovely spot at Lower
Gylen, a 45-minute walk from the ferry, this converted
eighteenth-century stable building, with seven rooms, also
has a byre living space for hire by the ev ening . They also
rent a room in the farmhouse for B&B. Bed £15 /person

Kerrera Teagarden Lower Gylen, next to the
bunkhouse. Given that Kerrera has no shop, you may well
find yourself at this delightful café where you can eat
home-made veggie snacks, cakes and coffee. Easter-Sept
daily 10am-4.30pm.