Argyll - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 47

1

Argyll
Cut off for centuries from the rest of Scotland by the mountains and sea
lochs that characterize the region, Argyll remains remote, its scatter of
offshore islands forming part of the Inner Hebridean archipelago (the
remaining Hebrides are dealt with in chapters 5 and 6). Geographically as
well as culturally, this is a transitional area between Highland and Lowland,
boasting a rich variety of scenery, from lush, subtropical gardens warmed by
the Gulf Stream to flat and treeless islands on the edge of the Atlantic. And
it's these islands that are the real magnet, from magnificent sea-bound
wildlife to endless walking possibilities and some of the world's finest
whiskies. It's in the folds and twists of the countryside, the interplay of land
and water and the views out to the islands that the strengths and beauties of
mainland Argyll lie.
Much of mainland Argyll comprises remote peninsulas separated by a series of long sea
lochs. The first peninsula you come to from Glasgow is Cowal , cut of from the rest of
Argyll by a series of mountains including the Arrochar Alps. Nestling in one of Cowal's
sea lochs is the Isle of Bute , whose capital, Rothesay, is probably the most appealing of
the old Clyde steamer resorts. Kintyre , the long finger of land that stretches south
towards Ireland, is less visually dramatic than Cowal, though it does provide a stepping
stone for several islands, including Arran.
Arran , Scotland's most southerly big island - now strictly speaking part of North
Ayrshire - is justifiably popular, with spectacular scenery ranging from the granite
peaks of the north to the Lowland pasture of the south. Of Argyll's Hebridean
islands, mountainous Mull is the most visited, though it's large enough to absorb the
crowds, many of whom are only passing through en route to the tiny isle of Iona ,
a centre of Christian culture since the sixth century, or to Tobermory , the island's
impossibly picturesque port (aka “Balamory”). Beautiful Islay draws the crowds
primarily because of its fantastic whisky distilleries, while neighbouring Jura offers
excellent walking opportunities. And, for those seeking further solitude, there's the
island of Colonsay , with its beautiful golden sands, and the windswept islands of
Tiree and Coll , which also boast great beaches and enjoy more sunny days than
anywhere else in Scotland.
If you can, avoid July and August , when the crowds on Mull, Iona and Arran are at
their densest - there's no guarantee the weather will be any better than during the rest

Climbing The Cobbler p.55
Loch Fyne Oyster Bar p.56
Walking up Puck's Glen p.57
Johnny Dumfries p.61
Bute's highest peaks p.62
Wildlife-watching trips from
Tobermory p.76
Whales and dolphins p.79
Walking Iona p.82
St Columba p.83

Islands galore p.94
The Beaver Trial p.99
Arran rocks p.108
Arran Golf Pass p.109
Goat Fell p.110
Walking in north Arran p.112
Islay whisky distilleries p.115
Islay geese p.117
Walking the Paps of Jura p.122
George Orwell on Jura p.123