Shetland - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 400

free; W foordschocolates.co.uk), where there's also an exhibition on the history of the
RAF on Unst. The former base is also now home to Britain's most northerly brewery,
the Valhalla Brewery , source of the Shetland Ales you see around the islands, which
welcomes visits by appointment ( T 01957 711658, W valhallabrewery.co.uk).

Hermaness Nature Reserve
To the west of Burra Firth lies the bleak headland of Hermaness , now a National
Nature Reserve and home to more than 100,000 nesting seabirds. There's an excellent
visitor centre in the former lighthouse-keepers' shore station, where you can pick up a
leaflet showing the marked routes across the heather, which allow you access into the
reserve. Whatever you do, stick to the path so as to avoid annoying the vast numbers of
nesting great skuas.
From Hermaness Hill, you can look down over the jagged rocks of the wonderfully
named Vesta Skerry, Rumblings, Tipta Skerry and Muckle Flugga , the latter providing
the dramatic setting for a lighthouse. Few sites could ever have presented as great a
challenge to the builders, who erected it in 1858. Beyond Muckle Flugga is Out Stack ,
the most northerly bit of Britain, where Lady Franklin landed in 1849 in order to pray
(in vain, as it turned out) for the safe return of her husband from his expedition to
discover the Northwest Passage, undertaken four years previously. The views from here
are inevitably marvellous, as is the birdlife; there's a huge gannetry on one of the stacks,
and puffins burrow all along the clifftops. The walk down the west side of Unst towards
Westing is one of the finest in Shetland: if the wind's blowing hard, the seascape is
memorably dramatic.

8

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE UNST

By ferry T 01595 745804. Ferries shuttle regularly
across Bluemull Sound from Gutcher on Yell over to
Belmont on Unst (every 30-1hr; 10min).
By bus An integrated bus and ferry service goes all the
way from Lerwick to Baltasound on Unst (Mon-Sat 1-2

daily; 2hr 40min). From Belmont, the ferry terminal on
Unst, buses run to Uyeasound (Mon-Sat 2-4 daily; 5min),
continuing to Baltasound (Mon-Sat 2-3 daily; 15min) and
even Haroldswick (Mon-Sat 1-2 daily; 30min).

TOURS
Boat trips If your sea legs are better than your walking
boots, you can opt to see the great seabird colonies of
Hermaness with Muckle Flugga Charters ( T 01806 522447,

W muckleflugga.co.uk), which operate out of Baltasound
or Burrafirth.

ACCOMMODATION
Gardiesfauld Uyeasound T 01957 755279, W gardies
fauld.shetland.co.uk. A clean and modern hostel near
Uyeasound pier which all ows camping, an d offers bike
rental. April-Sept. Dorms £15 ; camping £6 /person

Prestagaard Uyeasound T 01957 755234, E preste
[e-mail]. This attractive, whitewashed
Victorian B&B, with just t hree rooms, is situated in Uyeasound
and has great sea views. £60

EATING AND DRINKING
Baltasound Hotel Baltasound T 01957 711334,
W baltasoundhotel.co.uk. Wherever you stay, it's a good
idea to book yourself in for dinner or self-cater - the only
other option is the bar food at the Baltasound Hotel (mains
£10-18). Food served daily 5-8pm.
Northern Lights Bistro Haroldswick T 01957 711557.
Spacious, modern café, serving soup, sandwiches and

toasties, with views across the bay, near the Unst Boat
Haven in Haroldswick. April-Sept daily 10am-6pm.
Skibhoul Café & Stores Baltasound. The island's
main shop is attached to the local bakery, has the odd chip
supper night and will fill your flask - there's also a self-
service café and reading corner in the store. Mon-Sat
9.30am-5.30pm.