Shetland - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 376

Bressay Heritage Centre
May-Sept Tues, Wed, Fri & Sat 10am-4pm, Sun 11am-5pm • Free
If you've time to kill before the ferry, pop into the Bressay Heritage Centre , by the ferry
terminal in Maryfield, where there are temporary exhibitions. A Bronze Age burnt mound
- essentially a pile of discarded rocks and charcoal used in fires - has been reconstructed
next to the centre. Visible to the north is Gardie House , built in 1724 and, in its
Neoclassical detail, one of the finest of Shetland's laird houses, where the likes of Sir Walter
Scott and minor royalty once stayed, and now home to the Lord Lieutenant of Shetland.

Noss
Appropriately enough for an island that slopes gently into the sea at its western end,
and plunges vertically 500ft at its eastern end, Noss has the dramatic and distinctive
outline of a half-sunk ocean liner, while its name means “a point of rock”. Inhabited
until World War II, it's now a nature reserve and sheep farm, managed by Scottish
Natural Heritage, who operate an RIB ferry from Bressay.
On the island, the old farmhouse contains a small visitor centre, where the warden
will give you a quick briefing and a free map. Nearby is a sandy beach, while behind
the haa (laird's house) is a Pony Pund , a square stone enclosure built for the breeding of
Shetland ponies. The most memorable feature of Noss is its eastern sea cliffs , rising to a
peak at the massive Noup (500ft), from which can be seen vast colonies of cliff-nesting
gannets, puffins, guillemots, shags, razorbills and fulmars: a wonderful sight and one
of the highlights of Shetland. As Noss is only a mile or so wide, it's easy enough to walk
to the sea cliffs and back (allow 4hr), but make sure you keep close to the coast, since
otherwise the great skuas (locally known as “bonxies”) will dive-bomb you.

8

ARRIVAL AND GETTING AROUND BRESSAY AND NOSS

By ferry The car ferry to Bressay departs from the town
harbour in Lerwick (every 30min-1hr; 7min; T 01595
743974) and arrives in Maryfield on the west coast. The
RIB ferry to Noss (May-Aug Mon & Thurs 11am-5pm; £3
return; before setting out phone T 0800 107 7818,
W nature-shetland.co.uk) leaves from the east coast,
3 miles from Maryfield - an easy walk or short journey on
a bike, bus or car.

By bus A bus will meet the 9am Bressay ferry (Mon,
Wed & Fri) and take you to Noss, but for the return
journey book the Dial-a-Ride service ( T 01595 745745)
the day before.
By boat Seabirds and Seals run a 3hr sightseeing boat
from Lerwick (mid-April to mid-Sept daily 10am & 2pm;
£45; T 07595 540224, W seabirds-and-seals.com), allow-
ing you a sea view of the vast bird colonies.

Central Mainland
The districts of Tingwall and Weisdale, plus the old capital of Scalloway , make up the
Central Mainland , an area of minor interest in the grand scheme of things, but very easy
to reach from Lerwick. In fine weather, it's a captivating mix of farms, moors and lochs,
and includes Shetland's only significant woodland. The area also holds strong historical
associations, with the Norse parliament at Law Ting Holm , unhappy memories of Earl
Patrick Stewart's harsh rule at Scalloway and nineteenth-century Clearances at Weisdale.

Scalloway
Approaching SCALLOWAY from the east, there's a dramatic view over the town and the
islands beyond. Once the capital of Shetland, Scalloway's importance waned through
the eighteenth century as Lerwick, just six miles to the east, grew in trading success and
status. Nowadays, Scalloway is fairly sleepy, though its harbour remains busy enough,
with a small fishing fleet and the North Atlantic Fisheries College on the far side.