The Western Isles - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 312

overlooked by the round-topped hill of Chaipabhal at the westernmost tip of South
Harris. As well as detailing the area's history of emigration, it's a useful centre for
ancestor-hunters, and there's a good section on St Kilda (see p.310).

Leverburgh (An t-Ob)
From Northton the road veers to the southeast to trim the island's south shore,
eventually reaching the sprawling settlement of LEVERBURGH (An t-Ob). Named after
Lord Leverhulme, who planned to turn the place into the largest fishing port on the
west coast of Scotland, it's the terminal for the CalMac car ferry service to Berneray
and the Uists. The hour-long journey across the skerry-strewn Sound of Harris is
one of Scotland's most tortuous ferry routes, with the ship taking part in a virtual
slalom-race to avoid numerous hidden rocks - it's also a great crossing from which to
spot seabirds and sea mammals.

6

Rodel (Roghadal)
A mile or so from Renish Point (Rubha Reanais), the southern tip of Harris, is the
old port of RODEL (Roghadal), where a smattering of picturesque ancient stone houses
lies among the hillocks. Down by the old harbour where the ferry from Skye used to
arrive, you'll find the Rodel Hotel , a solid, stone-built, family-run hotel originally
erected in 1781.

St Clement's Church (Tur Chliamainn)
For opening times phone ahead • T 01851 710395, W historic-scotland.gov.uk
On top of one of the grassy humps, with sheep grazing in the graveyard, is St Clement's
Church (Tur Chliamainn), burial place of the MacLeods of Harris and Dunvegan in
Skye. Dating from the 1520s - in other words pre-Reformation, hence the big
castellated tower (which you can climb) - the church was saved from ruination in the
eighteenth century, and fully restored in 1873 by the countess of Dunmore. The bare
interior is distinguished by its wall tombs, notably that of the founder, Alasdair
Crotach (also known as Alexander MacLeod), whose heavily weathered effigy lies
beneath an intriguing backdrop and canopy of sculpted reliefs depicting vernacular
and religious scenes - elemental representations of, among others, a stag hunt, the
Holy Trinity, St Michael and the devil, and an angel weighing the souls of the dead.
Look out, too, for the sheila-na-gig halfway up the south side of the church tower;
unusually, she has a brother displaying his genitalia, below a carving of St Clement on
the west face.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION SOUTH HARRIS

By ferry There's a daily ferry between Leverburgh and
Berneray, North Uist (3-4 daily; 1hr).
By bus There's a regular bus service along the west coast
between Leverburgh and Tarbert (Mon-Sat 6-8 daily;
45min-1hr), and a less frequent one via The Bays on the

east coast (Mon-Sat 2-4 daily; 1hr).
Tourist information On the north side of the bay is the
An Clachan co-op store which houses a small information
o ce (Mon-Sat 9am-6pm; T 01859 520370).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
THE BAYS
Ì Lickisto Blackhouse Camping Lickisto (Liceasto)
T 01851 530485, W freewebs.com/vanvon. There's fresh
bread and eggs available, a peat fire to warm you in the
kitchen blackhouse and to ilets in the b yres . Yurts also
available. March-Oct. Yurts £70 ; camping £24 /pitch
Ì Old School House Finsbay (Fionnsbhagh) T 01859
530420, W theoldschoolhousefinsbay.com. A very
friendly couple run this nicely converted Victorian former

village schoolhouse, which comes with free wi-fi, good
home-cooking an d huge portions for dinner (£20-30)
and breakfast. £70
Skoon 4 Geocrab T 01851 530268, W skoon.com.
There aren't too many places to stop and have a bite
to eat, so Skoon is something of a boon: home-made
soup, baguettes, cakes and good coffee on offer. April-
Sept Tues-Sat 10am-4.30pm; Oct-March Fri & Sat
same hours.