Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
5
HIKING IN THE RÙM CUILLIN
Ordnance Survey Explorer map 397
Rùm's
Cuillin
may not be as famous as Skye's, but in fine weather offers equally exhilarating
hiking
possibilities. Whatever route you choose, be sure to take all the usual safety precautions
(see p.42).
The most popular walk is to traverse most or part of the
Cuillin Ridge
, around a twelve-
hour round-trip from Kinloch. The most frequent route is via Coire Dubh, then on to the saddle
of Bealach Bairc-mheall. From here, you can either climb Barkeval to the west, or go for
Hallival
(2372ft) southeast, which looks daunting but is only a mild scramble. South of Hallival,
the ridge is grassy, but the north ridge of
Askival
(2663ft) needs to be taken carefully, sticking
to the east side. Askival is the highest mountain on Rùm, and if you're thinking of heading
back, or the weather's closing in, Glen Dibidil provides an easy descent.
To continue along the ridge, head west to the double peak of
Trollaval
(or Trallval). The
descent to Bealach an Fhuarain is steep, after which it's another scramble to reach the top of
Ainshval
(2562ft). Depending on the time and weather, you can continue along the ridge to
Sgùrr nan Gillean
, descend via Glen Dibidil and take the coastal path back to Kinloch, or skip
the Sgùrr and go straight on to the last peak of the ridge,
Ruinsival
.
remains are ruined blackhouses, which makes the Neoclassical
Bullough Mausoleum
all the more extraordinary. It was built by Sir George for his father and is actually the
second family mausoleum here: the first was lined with Italian marble, but dynamited
after a friend remarked it looked like a public lavatory.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMAT ION
RÙM
By ferry
The longest day-trip possibilities from Mallaig are on
Sat (11hr). Note that overnight visitors cannot bring dogs, but
day-trippers can. Summer timetables are: Arisaig-Rùm (Tues,
Thurs & Sat 1 daily; 2hr 30min); Canna-Rùm (Mon, Wed, Fri
& Sat 1 daily; 55min); Eigg-Rùm (Mon & Sat 1 daily; 1hr-3hr
30min); Mallaig-Rùm (Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat & Sun 1 daily; 1hr
20min-2hr 30min); Muck-Rùm (Sat 1 daily; 1hr 10min).
Tourist information
W
isleofrum.com.
ACCOMMODAT ION AND EATING
Visitors are permitted to
wild camp
and there are two simple
bothies
(three nights maximum) in Dibidil, on the
southeast coast, and Guirdil, on the northwest coast. You'll find a shop/post o
ce/off-licence in Kinloch, beside the
community hall, which serves
teas
and
snacks
(April-Sept Mon-Sat noon-4pm).
Ivy Cottage
Kinloch
T
01687 462744,
E
fliss@isleofrum
.com.
Delivers loch views from two pleasant en-suite rooms
and the conservatory where you breakfast, plus a relaxed
atmosphere in the first B&B on Rùm, in a modern house on
the loch in front of the castle. Its young ow
ners
prepare
dinners for guests and non-residents on request.
£90
Kinloch Campsite
T
01687 460328.
A community-run
campsite with an appealing location spread along the
shore on the south side of Kinloch Bay. Also on site are four
tiny, ins
ula
ted camping cabins
with
four beds each.
Camping
£5
/person; cabins for two
£20
Kinloch Castle Hostel
T
01687 462037.
This hostel
was in transition on our last visit; dormitories have
moved to timber-clad Porta-kabins on the lawn before
a new bunkhouse is built by the campsite (by around
2015). It currently has four-bed rooms (one bunk, two
single
s) plus a
shared kitchen and lounge.
April-Oct.
Dorms
£18.50
Eigg
Eigg
- which measures just five miles by three - does little to conceal its volcanic
origins. It is made of a basalt plateau and a great stump of pitchstone lava, known as
An Sgùrr, rises in the south. Active geology aside, Eigg is by far the most vibrant of the
Small Isles, with a strong sense of community among the hundred residents. This was
given an enormous boost in 1997 when they (alongside the Scottish Wildlife Trust)
pulled of the first
buyout
of a Highlands estate, thereby ending Eigg's unhappy history
of private ownership, most recently by Keith Schellenberg, an Olympic bobsleigher and
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