Skye and the Small Isles - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 279

ACCOMMODAT ION
Ì Ben Tianavaig 5 Bosville Terrace T 01478 612152,
W ben-tianavaig.co.uk. The best B&B in the centre, with
a warm welcome from your hosts and cottagey en-suites
that are modern and bright, with art on the walls and
unrestricted harbour views for an extra £10. Good br eak-
fasts whatever the tariff. Reservations recommended. £70
Cuillin Hills Hotel Turn left at end of Bosville Terrace
T 01478 612003, W cuillinhills-hotel-skye.co.uk. Lord
Macdonald's old hunting lodge secluded in fifteen acres
is the smartest formal hotel in Portree, and with views
over the Sound of Raasay makes a luxurious country stay
with town facilities to hand. Accommodation is spacious
and comf ortable, refurbished into a sort of Highlands
chic. £210
Ì The Spoons 75 Aird Bernisdale, near Skeabost
Bridge, 6 miles north of Portree T 01478 532217,
W thespoonskye.com. This epitomizes the new breed of

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stylish B&B: chalky grey walls, crisp linen and wool throws,
an eclectic mix of antique and modern furnishings, a nd ou t-
standing breakfasts. A very grown-up, relaxing stay. £140
Torvaig Campsite 2 miles north of Portree on A855
T 01478 611849, W portreecampsite.co.uk. Views of
mountains and flat pitches appeal at this family-run site
on the road to Sta n. Alongside the usual amenities and
electricity hook-ups, handy extras in clu de a laundry with
tumble driers and wi-fi. Easter-Oct. £7 /person
Ì Viewfield House Signposted off A87 T 01478
612217, W viewfieldhouse.com. The last word in Scots
Baronial style is this pile on the southern edge of town.
It's almost eccentric in its Victorian grandeur, all fabulous
floral wallpaper, hunting trophies, stuffed polecats and
antiques. Rooms are individually furnished; some tranquil,
som e glori iously over the top. Great fun. Easter to early
Oct. £116

EATING AND DRINKING
Café Arriba Quay Brae T 01478 611830. This local
institution packs in the punters. They come for a gossip over
the best coffee in town or tea served in large china pots
as much as the globe-trotting café menu of home-made
soups, wraps, pastas or posh lamb kebabs for around £8.
Easter-Oct daily 7am-6pm.
Harbour View 7 Bosville Terrace T 01478 612069.
As cosy as the fisherman's front room it once was,
Portree's most romantic restaurant prepares the likes of
seared hake on puy lentils (£17) or Loch Eihort moules
marinière on a seafood menu. Tues-Sun: March, April,
Nov & Dec 5.30-10pm; May-Oct noon-2.30pm &
5.30-10pm.

Isles Inn Somerled Square T 01478 612129. With its
log fire and flagstone floors, this is the most appealing of
Portree's pubs; it also has the occasional ceilidh band.
Alongside Skye ales, it has a no-nonsense menu of fish and
chips, venison burgers or local haggis, neeps and tatties
(£7-12). Mon-Thurs 11am/noon-midnight, Fri & Sat
till 1am, Sun till 11pm.
Sea Breezes 2 Marine Buildings T 01478 612016.
A modern, informal restaurant on the harbour that
specializes in local fish - such as Uist scallops with crayfish
or local seafood pasta - but finds space for steak and
chicken with Toulouse sausage. Mains £10-20. April to
late Oct daily noon-2pm & 5-9.30pm.

Trotternish
Protruding twenty miles north of Portree, the Trotternish peninsula has some of the
island's most bizarre scenery, particularly on the east coast, where volcanic basalt has
pressed down on softer sandstone and limestone, causing massive landslides. These,
in turn, have created sheer cliffs, peppered with outcrops of hard, wizened basalt
- pinnacles and pillars that are at their most eccentric in the Quiraing , above Staffin
Bay, a long arc of beach just north of Staffin village.

Old Man of Storr
6 miles north of Portree along the A855
The most celebrated column of rock on Skye, the Old Man of Storr is all that is left after
one massive landslip. Huge blocks of stone still occasionally break of the cliff of the
Storr (2358ft) above. A half-hour trek from a car park ascends to the pillar but don't
expect to have it to yourself - this is one of the island's signature sights.

Lealt Falls
Off the A855, east of Lealt
Five miles north of the Old Man, a signposted turn goes west to the Lealt Falls , at the
head of a gorge which is largely in shadow (and home to crack squadrons of midges).