Skye and the Small Isles - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 277

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Stein
STEIN , looking out over Loch Bay to the Western Isles, is Waternish's prettiest village,
a row of whitewashed cottages built in 1787 by the British Fisheries Society. The place
never really took of and was more or less abandoned within a couple of generations.
Today it's a little livelier, thanks to its lovely restaurant and pub - there are few nicer
places on Skye for a pint on a sunny summer evening.

Trumpan Church
At the end of the road that continues north from Stein is the medieval shell of
Trumpan Church . Its beautiful location belies one of the bloodiest episodes in Skye's
history. In a revenge attack in 1578, the MacDonalds of Uist set fire to the church
while numerous MacLeods were attending a service within. Everyone perished
except one young girl, who squeezed through a window and raised the alarm. The
MacLeods rallied and slaughtered the MacDonalds, then threw their bodies into a
nearby dyke. In the graveyard is the Trial Stone - in the fourteenth century, accused
criminals were blindfolded and if they could fit their fingers in its hole they were
deemed innocent. Otherwise, ouch.

ACCOMMODAT ION WATERNISH

Ì Loch Bay Seafood Restaurant Stein T 01470
592235. Tiny, romantic, fabulous, with super-fresh
seafood in a dining room full of art. Blackboard menus
list the day's catch alongside regulars like peat-smoked
salmon or oysters; mains are around £18. Reservations
highly recommended. Easter to mid-Oct Tues, Fri & Sat
7-10pm, Wed & Thurs noon-3pm & 7-10pm.

Ì Stein Inn Stein T 01470 592362, W steininn.co.uk.
A sixteenth-century waterfront inn that's as traditional as
you'd hope: local ales, 125 malts and home-made dishes
like pork Stroganoff (average £12). Above are five cheerful
en-suite rooms; simple, clean and you wake to sea views.
Mon-Thurs 11am-11pm/midnight, Fri & Sat 11am-
midnight/1am; food served Easter-Oct noon- 4pm &
6-9pm; Oct-Easter noon-2.30pm & 5.30-8pm. £74

Portree
PORTREE is the only town on Skye, with a population of around 2500. It's also one of
the most attractive ports in northwest Scotland, its deep, cliff-edged harbour filled with
fishing boats and circled by multicoloured houses. Originally known as Kiltaraglen,
it takes its current name - some say - from Port Rìgh (Port of the King), after the state
visit James V made in 1540 to assert his authority over the chieftains of Skye.
The focus of activity for many visitors is the harbour , with an attractive wharf that
dates from the early nineteenth century and a fishing fleet that still lands a modest catch.
Looming behind is The Lump , a steep and stumpy peninsula on which public hangings
once attracted crowds of up to five thousand. The tidy town centre spreads around
Somerled Square , built in the late eighteenth century as the island's administrative and
commercial centre. A shame that it now serves as Portree's bus station and car park.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE PORTREE

By bus Portree is the hub of all transport on the island
and has mainland connections from Glasgow with
CityLink.
Destinations Broadford via Sligachan (Mon-Sat 4-6 daily;

50min); Dunvegan (Mon-Sat 3-5 daily; 45min); Glasgow
(Mon-Sat 3 daily; 6hr 15min); Glen Brittle (Mon-Fri
2 daily; 50min); Trotternish circuit via Old Man of Storr,
Sta n and Uig (Mon-Sat 6 daily; 2hr total circuit).

INFORMAT ION AND ACTIVITIES
Tourist o ce Just off Bridge St (Mon-Sat 9am-5pm,
plus Sun 10am-4pm April-Oct; T 01478 612992). The
best tourist o ce on the island can book accommodation
and has internet terminals.

Bike rental Island Cycles, accessed off The Green or above
the long-stay car park (Easter-Oct Mon-Sat 9am-5pm,
call other months; T 01478 613121).

FROM TOP SEA KAYAKER, LOCH SCAVAIG P.276 ; WALKERS, GLEN BRITTLE P.276 >