Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Dunvegan
DUNVEGAN (Dùn Bheagain) is something of a letdown after the route there, skirting
the bony sea cliffs and stacks of the west coast. Yet it has one of Skye's most famous
traditional sights, plus two of the island's more interesting peninsulas, Duirinish and
Waternish, in its backyard.
5
Dunvegan Castle
1 mile north of Dunvegan • Easter to mid-Oct daily 10am-5pm • £9.50, or £6 for gardens only • T 01470 521206,
W dunvegancastle.com
Just north of the village, Dunvegan Castle sprawls over a rocky outcrop,
sandwiched between the sea and several acres of attractive gardens . It's been the
seat of the Clan MacLeod since the thirteenth century, but the present facade is
a product of Victorian romanticism. Older architecture remains inside, where you
get the usual furniture and oil paintings alongside some more noteworthy items.
The most intriguing is the scrappy remnants of the Fairy Flag , carried back to Skye,
they say, by the Gaelic boatmen of King Harald Hardrada after the Battle of
Stamford Bridge in 1066. MacLeod tradition states the flag was the gift of a fairy
to protect the clan - as late as World War II, MacLeod pilots carried pictures of
it for luck.
Claigan Coral Beaches
3 miles north of Dunvegan
Keep it quiet but these beaches in Claigan, three miles north of Dunvegan, might be
as good a reason to visit as the castle. The strands are not coral but calcified maerl
(seaweed) and tiny sea shells, but on a sunny day, their white sand and aqua water
could almost be the Caribbean. Almost.
ARRIVAL AND ACTIVITIES
DUNVEGAN
By bus Dunvegan is served by buses that loop around
northern Skye from Portree (Mon-Fri 6 daily, Sat 3 daily;
45min); about half of them stop at the castle.
Boat trips Seal-watching trips (mid-April to Sept
10am-5pm; £6) in a rowing boat embark from a quay
beneath Dunvegan Castle's garden.
ACCOMMODAT ION
Ì Greshornish House Greshornish, 6 miles east of
Dunvegan T 01470 582266, W greshornishhouse.com.
This wonderful small hotel - half country hotel, half family
home of its charming owners - has cosy, traditional rooms,
period charm and a rel axed atmosphere that's di cult to
leave. April-Nov. £130
Kinloch Campsite Loch Dunvegan T 01470 521531,
W kinloch-campsite.co.uk. Spreads across the head of
Loch Dunvegan just as its name (literally “loch head”)
suggests, although motorhomes and caravans claim the
prime waterfront - ca mpers pitch at the sides and on a
low hill. April-Oct. £7 /person
Roskhill House Ose, 3 miles south of Dunvegan
T 01470 521317, W roskhillhouse.co.uk. Stone walls,
crafts and home-made cake bring charm to this old croft
house, whose modern oak furnishings and bed throws
over crisp white line n len d understated style to your stay.
Great breakfasts too. £78
EATING
Edinblaine Inn Edinblaine, 8 miles east of Dunvegan
T 01470 582414. Proper restaurant dishes such as herb-
crust lamb with a root veg terrine and red wine jus
(average £16) meets local vibe in a pub that wins plaudits
from locals. Music on Wed evenings and Sun afternoons.
Mon-Sat 6-9pm, Sun noon-3pm; closed Thurs
Oct-June.
Jann's Cakes Dunvegan. This tiny place on the high street
is a Skye legend for its cakes and home-made chocolates,
and also prepares fresh sandwiches and soups. Not cheap
- £5 a slice of cake or £6 for scallop chowder - but quality
is high. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm.
The Old School Dunvegan T 01470 521421. Offers
upmarket cooking such as venison haunch with whisky
and honey sauce or hake with langoustine bisque (average
£17). Raw stone walls add character to a lofty and rather
smart dining room. April-Oct daily 6-10pm; Nov-
March Sat & Sun same hours.
 
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