Skye and the Small Isles - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 271

ACTIVITIES
Bike rental You can rent bikes from Armadale Bikes
( T 01471 844241 or T 07919 278871, W armadalebikes.co
.uk), in Ardvasar, half a mile south of the ferry terminal, or
bikes can be collected from the ferry terminal with notice.

5

Seafari T 01471 833316, W seafari.co.uk. Wildlife and
scenery trips in a high-speed RIB from Armadale to spot
dolphins and minke whales in summer.

ACCOMMODAT ION, EATING AND DRINKING
ARMADALE AND ARDVASAR
Ardvasar Hotel Ardvasar, 0.5 miles south of Armadale
T 01471 844223, W ardvasarhotel.com. This pretty little
inn has benefitted from refurbishment to create comfort-
able, contemporary accommodation as well as a smart
restaurant specializing in local seafood - lo bster, scallops
and crab, plus Speyside beef for around £13. £130
Flora MacDonald Hostel Kilmore, 4 miles north
of Armadale T 01471 844272, W skye-hostel.co.uk.
Turn opposite Kilmore church to find the community-run
hostel. Decor is of the granny's armchair variety -
adding character or dated depending on your view.
Bunks are in mix ed dorms or a family/group lodge.
Dorms £16 ; twins £42
Rubha Phoil Entry at ferry terminal, Armadale
T 01471 844700, W skye-permaculture.org.uk. Just ten
pitches plus two cute cabins in a 16-acre woodland camp-
site a liated to an organic nursery. Alongside green
credentials, you get eggs from free-range hens (with
honesty box), yoga classes, communal ca mpfire s and, if
you're keen, ast ound ing sunrises. Camping £7.50 /person;
cabins (for two) £30

ISLEORNSAY AND AROUND
Ì Eilean Iarmain Isleornsay T 01471 833332,
W eileaniarmain.com. This small hotel is a charmer, roman-
tically furnished in cosy country style: antiques, pretty fabrics,
awesome views and not a TV in sight. The restaurant serves
fine dining menus such as venison with garlic and white
tru e mash, or there's informal eating in th e bar (mains
average £13). Daily noon-2.30pm & 6-9pm. £170
Napier Cottage 1 mile south of Isleornsay T 01471
833461, W napiercottage.co.uk. Underfloor heating,
Scandinanvian woodburners and views to the Knoydart
peninsula in the lounge, modern wood furnishings in
tasteful rooms and lovely owners who ca n't do enough to
help combine to make a luxury B&B stay. £120
Kinloch Lodge 1 mile south of Isleornsay T 01471
833333, W kinloch-lodge.co.uk. One of the island's leading
small hotels, this remains the home of Lord and Lady
Macdonald of Macdonald and as such is furnished with
antiques and clan mementos. As famous is the Michelin-
starred food of Claire Macdonald; seasonal tasting menus or
succinct set menus showcase super-fresh island ingr edien ts.
Two courses from £30. Daily noon-2pm & 6-9pm. £300

Kyleakin
he Skye Bridge that rendered the ferry crossing redundant has been a mixed
blessing for the old port of KYLEAKIN (pronounced “ka la kin”, with the stress on
the second syllable). On one hand it's now bypassed; on the other, that leaves its
neat centre that bit quieter, even in high season. Bizarrely, it's also evolved into a
backpackers' hangout.
The bridge has been less kind to Eilean Bàn , an island from which the bridge
leapfrogs to cross Loch Alsh. From 1968 to 1969, its lighthouse keeper's cottage was
briefly the home of Gavin Maxwell, author of Ring of Bright Water and Tarka the Otter .
The island now serves as a nature reserve and can be visited on tours booked through
the Bright Water Visitor Centre (see below) in Kyleakin.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMAT ION KYLEAKIN

By bus There are buses from and to Kyle of Lochalsh
(Mon-Sat hourly; 10min) and Portree via Broadford
(1 daily; 55min).

Tourist information Available in the Bright Water Visitor
Centre, The Pier (Easter-Sept, generally 10am-4pm but
phone for times; T 01599 530040, W eileanban.org).

ACCOMMODAT ION AND EATING
Saucy Mary's Kyleakin T 01599 534845, W saucymarys
.com. The largest hostel in the village has loch views and
is popular with backpackers for its location above the

pub - quieter accommodation for families is in an annexe,
and th e same owners also manage a B&B next door.
Dorms £18.50 ; doubles £49