The north and northwest Highlands - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 243

ACCOMMODAT ION AND EATING NORTH OF LOCHINVER

Achmelvich Beach SYHA Achmelvich T 01571
844480, W syha.org.uk. Although the open-plan lounge-
kitchen of this 27-bed hostel in a former school and cottage
struggles when full, most people are outside anyway - just
100yd away are the white sands of the beach. Dorms and
private twins are available. Closed mid- Sept to East er, a s
well as weekdays Sept & Easter. Dorms £18 ; twins £42
Clachtoll Beach Campsite Clachtoll T 01571 855377,
W clachtollbeachcampsite.co.uk. Less is often more in
campsites - less concrete, more nature - and this simple,

neat site at the heart of the crofting village is all about its
location right behind one of the most appealing stretches
of p owder white sand on the west coast. Easter-Sept.
£14 /pitch
Split Rock Croft 145 Clachtoll T 01571 855215,
W splitrockcroftbb.co.uk. B&B on a new-build working
croft that's as welcoming as its young owners. Has spacious,
quietly luxurious en-suites - the Skye Room has sea views,
the suite-style Garde n Ter race has a kitchenette. Breakfasts
are all home-grown. £80

Loch Assynt and around
Bounded by peaks of the Ben More Assynt massif, the area inland from Lochinver is
a wilderness of mountains, moorland, mist and scree. Anglers love it because of the
brown trout in its lochs and lochans, while the toothy remains of Ardveck Castle ,
a MacLeod stronghold from 1597 that fell to the Seaforth Mackenzies after a siege
in 1691, add romance. The region's other claim to fame is Knockan Crag (Creag
a' Chnocain; W knockan-crag.co.uk), thirteen miles south of Loch Assynt on the A835
to Ullapool, one of the world's most important geological sites. In 1859 geologist
James Nicol came up with the theory of thrust faults from its geology. Two interpretive
trails (15min and 1hr) highlight the movement of rock plates for novices and there's
information on the area in an unstaffed visitor centre .

4

Kylesku and around
Until a road bridge swept over the mouth of lochs Glencoul and Glendhu,
KYLESKU , 33 miles north of Ullapool, was the embarkation point for a ferry
that was the only link to north Scotland. Off the main road since the bridge's
construction in 1984, it's now a beautiful, soporific spot, where interlocking
slopes plunge into the deep waters. Marking a last hurrah before the Assynt's sharp
sandstone gives way to rounded quartzite, Kylesku is popular with walkers due to its
proximity to Quinag (2651ft), less a single Munro than several peaks reached by a
ridge-walk . The easiest ascent is from a car park on the A894 a few miles south of
Kylesku. Also in the area is Britain's highest waterfall, Eas a Chùal Aluinn (650ft) at
the head of Loch Glencoul. It's five miles return east of a car park two miles south
of Kylesku or a full day on a track around the north side of both lochs. Alternatively
boat tours run from the wharf.

ARRIVAL AND TOURS KYLESKU AND AROUND

By bus D&E Coaches' ( T 01463 222444) summer-only
service from Inverness to Durness via Ullapool and Lochinver
stops at Kylesku. It can carry bikes with a reservation.
Destinations Inverness (late May to Sept 1 daily Mon-
Sat, plus Sun 1 daily in July & Aug; 4hr); Lochinver (same
times; 30min).

Tours Alongside boat trips to Eas a Chùal Aluinn aboard
the Rachael Clare (Easter-Sept 2-3 daily; round trip 1.5hr;
£25; T 01971 502239 or T 0792 114 9086, W rachaelclare
.com), the operator also runs a number of specials afloat,
including wildlife safaris, geography tours with a geologist
and evening mackerel-fishing.

ACCOMMODAT ION AND EATING
Ì Kylesku Hotel Kylesku T 01971 502231, W kylesku
hotel.co.uk. Refurbishment over 2012-13 has created a
small hotel of crisp, modern style - soft natural tones,
tweed headboards - beside the loch. It provides by far the

best food in the area, all sourced locally. Expect the likes of
turbot with vermouth and chive sauce (£ 14), we ll-hung
steak and home-made fish pie. March-Oct. £92.50