The north and northwest Highlands - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 237

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE ULLAPOOL

By bus Buses stop at the pier, near the ferry dock.
Destinations Durness (May-Sept Mon-Sat 1 daily, plus
Sun 1 daily in July & Aug; 3hr); Inverness (Mon-Sat 3 daily,
Sun 1 daily; 1hr 30min).

By ferry CalMac ( T 01854 612358, W calmac.co.uk) sails
to Stornaway, Lewis (Mon-Sat 2 daily, Sun 1 daily;
2hr 45min); an extra sailing runs on Sun during summer
school holidays.

INFORMAT ION
Tourist o ce Argyle St (Easter-May & Sept Mon-Sat
9.30am-5pm, Sun 10am-3pm; June-Aug Mon-Sat
9am-6pm, Sun 9.30am-4.30pm; T 01854 612486,

W ullapool.co.uk). This well-run tourist o ce also offers an
accommodation booking service.

ACCOMMODAT ION
Ullapool is busy from Easter through until September - booking in advance is recommended.

Christmas and New Year. £96
West House West Argyle St T 01854 613126, W west
housebandb.co.uk. A former manse, with all the hand-
some proportions that suggests, plus charming owners
who spoil you with fresh bread and cakes. Relaxing modern
rooms and a pre-stocked fridge in each room mean s a co nti-
nental breakfast at your leisure. All in all a bargain. £60

HOTELS, GUESTHOUSES AND B&BS
Ì The Ceilidh Place West Argyle St T 01854 612103,
W theceilidhplace.com. Antique beds or old books on
vintage cabinets add character to rooms of this lovely
small hotel. Some are pepped up with stylish wallpaper,
otherwise modern-rustic rules. The cheapest rooms share
bathrooms. Also mana ges a small two-room bunkhouse
(£20) directly opposite. £90
Point Cottage West Shore St T 01854 612494,
W ullapoolbedandbreakfast.co.uk. A seafront former
fisherman's cottage with loch views from its two pretty
front rooms, finished, like the rear double, in soft in atur al
shades and subtle tartans for a homely atmosphere. £75
Ì Tanglewood House 1 mile south off A835 T 01854
612059, W tanglewoodhouse.co.uk. Charm and character
in an extraordinary house built by a sailor that's full of
art and antiques. Superb rooms are individually furnished,
the best with a terrace to enjoy the position above Loch
Broom - worth its extra £14. Factor in a beach beneath
for a dip and this is a truly memorable stay. Closed Easter,

HOSTEL AND CAMPSITE
Broomfield Holiday Park West Shore St T 01854
612020, T Tbroomfieldhp.com. Hurrah: a campsite in the
centre of town with great loch views and space galore at
the tip of Ullapool, plu s good facilities and all close to the
pub. Easter-Sept. £16 /pitch
SYHA Hostel Shore St T 01854 612254, W syha.org.uk.
Busy hostel bang on the seafront, where prints and murals
of seaside scenes help add a cheerful holiday atmosphere.
There are dorms of various sizes, doubles, twins, two lounges,
internet access and laundry plus lot s of good inf orm ation
about local walks. April-Oct. Dorms £18 ; doubles £44

4

EATING AND DRINKING
For a waterfront picnic, pick up fine regional nosh at the West Coast Delicatessen , 5 Argyle St.

The Arch Inn West Shore St T 01854 612454. Ullapool's
liveliest pub divides between a popular bar and informal
restaurant with Scottish-French cooking: starters like pan-
fried scallops with curry oil or Cullen skink, then home-
made fishcakes or duck confit alongside the usual fish
and chips. Mon-Thurs 11am-11pm, Fri & Sat 11-1am,
Sun 12.30-11pm; food served noon-2pm & 6-9pm.
The Ceilidh Place West Argyle St T 01854 612103.
Though locals warn quality can be erratic, this hall-like
venue remains one of the best in town. After breakfasts,
it shifts into a bistro menu - home-made burgers, salads,
schnitzels, plus daily specials like risotto and fish casseroles
- and its bar hosts live music. Daily 9am-10pm.
Deli-ca-sea West Shore St (opposite ferry terminal)
T 01854 612141. Come here for the best takeaway fish

and chips to eat by the harbour; all fish is prepared to order
and sourced that morning direct from local boats. Mon-
Thurs & Sun noon-9pm, Fri & Sat noon-10pm.
Ferry Boat Inn Shore St T 01854 612366. The interior is
nothing special - all character of the eighteenth-century
pub ripped out by some bland, modern café furnishings -
but the FBI remains a choice spot to swig a pint of ale at
the lochside (midges permitting) and watch the boats.
Daily 11am-11pm.
Tea Store Argyle St T 01854 612995. Fabulous fry-up
breakfasts with black pudding and haggis, home-baked
cakes and scones, soups and baked potatoes and a
refreshing cuppa at prices around £5 - small wonder this
unpretentious wee café is popular with locals. Mon-Sat
8am-5pm, Sun 9am-4pm.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LIGHTHOUSE, CAPE WRATH P.249 ; SANDWOOD BAY P.248 ; EILEAN DONAN CASTLE P.227 >