The north and northwest Highlands - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 233

ACTIVITIES
BOAT TRIPS
Gairloch prides itself on wildlife cruises from its harbour.
Orcas and minke whales migrate past from late spring to
late summer; porpoise, dolphins and seals are common
year-round. All operators are located on the harbour
at Charlestown.
Gairloch Marine Life Centre & Cruises Charlestown
T 01445 712636, W porpoise-gairloch.co.uk. Up to
three trips (Easter-Oct; £20) a day run by the largest
operator, which deploys a mini-sub for underwater pictures
and a hydrophone to pick up audio. Its visitor centre
(Easter-Oct Mon-Fri 10am-3pm, Sat & Sun 11am-3pm)
has displays of local sea life.

Hebridean Whale Cruises Charlestown T 01445
712458, W hebridean-whale-cruises.co.uk. As well as
in-shore cruises, the longest established operator runs
trips (Easter-Oct; call for winter cruises; from £45) in a
high-speed RIB that allow it to reach further off-shore into
the North Minch out to the Shiant Isles off Lewis.

PONY TREKKING
Gairloch Trekking Centre 1 Flowerdale Mains,
Charlestown T 01445 712652, W gairlochtrekking
centre.co.uk. Lead-rein rides for young or inexperienced
riders, plus longer hacks through pretty Highland scenery,
between March and Oct.

ACCOMMODAT ION
GAIRLOCH
Kerrysdale House Charlestown T 01445 712292,
W kerrysdalehouse.co.uk. Marie Macrae's atmospheric
and tastefully furnished B&B is set back from the road in
its own gardens before the turn-off to Badachro. One
room stands out for i ts co ol, contemporary decor; most are
relaxed and homely. £72
Old Inn Charlestown T 01445 712006, W theoldinn
.net. Country character abounds in the rooms of this
former coaching inn set off the main road beside the
Flowerdale River. Expect pretty patchwork-style quilts or
tartan headboards in cosy en-suite rooms, along with
hotel-standard f acilitie s like wi-fi, and tea- and coffee-
making facilities. £104

lounge. It's also one of the oldest hotels in the net work
and rat her shows its age. April-Sept. Dorms £18 ;
doubles £40
Sands Caravan and Camping T 01445 712152,
W sandscaravanandcamping.co.uk. The best of the area's
campsites, with pitches behind the dunes for sea views.
Also rents “wigwams” - actually Scandi-style cabins for
up to five with a barbecue and fire pit. Offers laundr y
facilities, plus kayak an d bik e rental. April-Oct. £14.50 /
pitch; wigwams for two £32

4

RUBHA REIDH
Rua Reidh Lighthouse T 01445 771263, W stayata
lighthouse.co.uk. Epic seascapes to the Hebrides in the
only lighthouse hostel on Britain's west coast, recently
redecorated and with private bathrooms throughout -
check website to confirm winter openings (undecided
on our last visit). Breakfa sts, p acked lunches and dinner
available at bargain prices. £40

BIG SAND
Gairloch Carn Dearg SYHA T 01445 712219, W syha
.org.uk. This former hunting lodge is spectacularly sited
above the foreshore, with vast views to Skye from its

EATING AND DRINKING
GAIRLOCH
Mountain Coffee Company Achtercairn T 01445
712316. Here's an unusual find for a small Highlands
town - a relaxed café with a global backpacker vibe.
Coffees, home-baking and bagels with fresh fillings, plus
a good bookshop on-site. Easter-Nov daily 9am-5pm;
Dec-Easter Mon-Sat 10am-3pm.
Old Inn Charlestown T 01445 712006. Flagstone floors
and stone walls provide character in a sympathetically
modernized coaching inn. Posh-pub specials such as
pheasant in pastry, pork roasts and venison steaks, plus
beers of the on-site microbrewery, provide the sustenance.
Mains average £13. Daily 11am-11pm; food served
noon-2.30pm & 6-9pm.

this is more quirky youth club than Highlands pub - the
owner's past was with Seventies and Eighties rock bands.
In the restaurant, spectacular sea views, local seafood and
venison casseroles (£13) are specialities. Feb-Oct Tues-
Sun noon-11pm, Nov-Dec Sat & Sun same hours; food
served noon-3pm & 6-8pm.

BADACHRO
Ì Badachro Inn T 01445 771212. Settle onto the
terrace with a plate of pork belly or creel-caught
langoustine (£10-13) and this pub by the old harbour
is as fine a place as you'll find for a sunny afternoon.
Inside are real ales, excellent malts and a fire for
chill evenings. April-Oct daily noon-midnight, Sun
noon-11pm; Nov-March Wed-Sun same hours; food
served weekdays noon-3pm & 6-9pm, Sat & Sun
noon-3pm.

MELVAIG
Melvaig Inn T 01445 771212. Beyond the pebbledash