The north and northwest Highlands - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 228

Wester Ross
Wester Ross , the western seaboard of the old county of Ross-shire, is where the west coast
ups the ante. Here, all the classic elements of Scotland's coastal scenery - craggy mountains,
sandy beaches, whitewashed crofting cottages and shimmering island views - come together.
Settlements such as Applecross and the peninsulas north and south of Gairloch maintain a
simplicity and sense of isolation outside of peak season. There is some tough but wonderful
hiking in the mountains around Torridon and Coigach , while boat trips and the prolific
sea- and birdlife draw nature-lovers. The hub of life is Ullapool , a proper wee fishing town
and ferry port whose modest size ranks as a metropolis in these parts.

The Applecross peninsula
he Applecross peninsula sounds bucolic; the English-sounding name is a corruption of
the Gaelic Apor Crosan , meaning “estuary”. Yet the approach from the south - up a glacial
U-shaped valley and over the Bealach na Bà (“Pass of the Cattle”) at 2054ft - is one of the
classic drives and cycle pistes of the Highlands. A former drovers' road provides the greatest
road ascent in the UK, with a 1:5 gradient and switchbacks worthy of the Alps. Views
across the Minch to Raasay and Skye more than compensate - assuming the weather plays
ball. The other way in from the north is a beautiful coast road that meanders from
Shieldaig on Loch Torridon, past scattered crofting villages and with gorgeous seascapes.

Applecross
The sheltered, fertile coast around APPLECROSS village, where an Irish missionary
Maelrhuba founded a monastery in 673 AD, is a surprise after experiencing the wilds
that surround it. Though popular in peak season, it feels exhilaratingly remote, with
little to do but potter along lanes, paddle a kayak or build sandcastles on the beach. A
small Heritage Centre (April-Oct Mon-Sat noon-4pm; W applecrossheritage.org.uk)
near the site of St Maelrhuba's monastery, and beside Clachan church, showcases local
history and several waymarked trails along the shore are great for walking off lunch.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE

4

APPLECROSS

By bus The Dial-A-Bus ( T 01520 722205) between Strathcarron and Achasheen calls at Applecross.

INFORMAT ION AND ACTIVITIES
Tourist information There's an info point maintained
by the campsite opposite the fuel pumps in the centre
of the village (Easter-Oct; opening times erratic).
Village websites are W applecross.info and W applecross
.uk.com.

Applecross Mountain & Sea T 01520 744394,
W applecross.uk.com. Located by the fuel pumps, this
company organizes mountain walking and climbing
adventures, plus sea-kayaking, from half-day tasters to
overnight wild-camping trips.

ACCOMMODAT ION AND EATING
Applecross Campsite East of the centre T 01520
744268, W applecross.uk.com/campsite. A popular, well-
run two-field site above the village - the furthest field is the
quietest. It also provides basic cabins that sleep four, has a
buzzy bar and rustles up breakfasts and a menu of stone-
baked pizzas and bistro staples like venison casserole or
home-made fishcakes in the on-site café (mains £8-12).
March-Oct; f ood served May t o m id-Sept daily 9am-
9pm. Camping £9 /person; cabins £48
Applecross Inn On the waterfront T 01520 744262,
W applecross.uk.com. The heart of the community
provides pretty, cottagey en-suites in the eaves, all with

sea views. In the lively bar downstairs are Highland ales
and freshly prepared classic pastas and pies plus Applecross
Bay prawns and crab (mains around £10-14). Reservations
recommende d in s eason. Daily noon-11pm; food served
noon-9pm. £120
The Potting Shed Signed from back of the bay
T 01520 744440. Head here to enjoy delicious food in
the laidback atmosphere of a walled Victorian garden.
It's fairly inexpensive as a daytime café, but pricier in the
evening, when dishes like chicken-and-thyme casserole,
local lobster and local crab in a herb pancake cost around
£8-16. March-Oct daily 11am-8.30pm.