The north and northwest Highlands - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 223

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE THE KNOYDART PENINSULA

By boat Bruce Watt Cruises ( T 01687 462320, W knoydart
-ferry.co.uk) sail from Mallaig to Inverie every morning and
afternoon (mid-May to mid-Sept Mon-Fri; mid-Sept to
mid-May Mon, Wed & Fri; 45min). A ferry from Arnisdale,
Glenelg peninsula, across Loch Hourn to Barisdale (and

Kinlochhourn) in northern Knoydart was suspended at the
time of writing; for updates call T 01599 522247 or visit
W arnisdaleferry.com.
On foot It's a two-day hike into Knoydart; our box (see
p.225) gives details.

INFORMAT ION AND ACTIVITIES
Tourist information A ranger post ( T 01687 462242)
beside The Old Forge has information on the Knoydart
Foundation, and on local walks and wildlife.
Knoydart Pony Trekking Inverie T 01687 462830,
W knoydartponytrekking.co.uk. Based at stables near
the Knoydart Foundation Bunkhouse , this operator provides

beginners' treks plus overnight rides with a wild camp for
more experienced riders.
Mountain biking Two mountain-bike trails - a 1.5-mile
red-grade route and 500yd blue-grade - loop around Inverie.
You'll need to bring a bike, however, unless you're staying at
Knoydart Lodge (see below), which rents bikes to guests.

ACCOMMODAT ION
Most beds are in Inverie. You can wild camp (albeit with a compost toilet and water supply) on “long beach”, east of
Inverie centre, for a £4 donation to the Knoydart Foundation - pay the ranger or leave it in an honesty box at the campsite.
Showers (£4) are available in The Old Forge pub.

welcome and modest luxury in en-suite rooms w ith t he full
complement of mod cons and a shared veranda. £94

HOTELS AND B&BS
Ì Doune Stone Lodges T 01687 462667, W doune
-knoydart.co.uk. No roads, no stress - this may be the
ultimate Scottish getaway, with en-suite doubles in restored
pine-clad crofts behind a bay. As well as isolation and views,
its lovely owners provide super b cook ing. Minimum three
nights. Full board. Easter-Sept. £156
The Gathering Inverie T 01687 460051, W thegathering
knoydart.co.uk. Relaxed sophistication in a modern B&B
just west of the wharf that feels like self-contained
accommodation (the owner lives opposite). Superb views
and se nsati onal breakfasts. Also rents mountain bikes to
guests. £99
Knoydart Lodge Inverie T 01687 460129, W knoydart
lodge.co.uk. Near the beach and beside the community
allotment, this airy wooden house provides a warm

4

HOSTELS
Knoydart Foundation Bunkhouse Inverie T 01687
462163, W knoydart-foundation.com. The community
hostel is on an old farm west of the pier, near the beach.
Dorms are large, facilities include a kitchen and laundry,
and there's internet access in a lofty lounge wit h a w ood-
burner. Rather dated but perfectly comfy. Dorms £17
Torrie Shieling Inverie T 01687 462669, E torrie
[e-mail]. Fine self-catering facilities, comfort-
able four-bunk rooms and open fires in a living room in an
independent hostel east and above the village. Close to
hillside trails, but less handy for t he pub - the owner
collects arrivals off the ferry. Dorms £25

EATING AND DRINKING
Knoydart Pottery & Tearoom Inverie T 01687
460191. A lovely spot to lose a few hours (or a long wet
day): choose from sofas or a long communal table with the
best loch view in Knoydart. Breakfasts plus home-made
soups and gluten-free home-baking for around £5-8.
Easter-Oct Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat 11am-3pm.
Ì The Old Forge Inverie T 01687 462267. Though far

more modern than you'd expect, this remains one of
Scotland's finer pubs fuelled by a convivial atmosphere
and sense of remoteness. Generous bar meals feature
local seafood - specials are around £16, fish and chips £11
- and terrific loch views. Mon-Thurs & Sun 11am-
midnight, Fri & Sat 11am-1am; food served noon-
3pm & 6.30-9.30pm.

Kyle of Lochalsh and around
Once the main gateway to Skye, Kyle of Lochalsh has been left as a mere terminus for
the train route from Inverness since the construction of the Skye Bridge in 1995. Of
more interest is nearby Eilean Donan Castle on the shores of Loch Duich . Both are
fixtures on the tourist trail, which makes the remote Glenelg peninsula to the south
side of Loch Duich all the more inspiring. A few miles north of Kyle of Lochalsh,