The north and northwest Highlands - The Rough Guide to Scottish Highlands and Islands - page 217

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE THE ARDNAMURCHAN PENINSULA

By bus A single service (Mon-Sat; T 01967 431272)
that begins at Fort William (currently 1.25pm) goes via
Corren Ferry to reach Strontian (1hr) before continuing to
Kilchoan (3hr).
By ferry A CalMac ( W calmac.co.uk ) car ferry operates

between Tobemory (Mull) and Kilchoan (Mon-Sat 7 daily,
plus Sun May-Aug 5 daily; 35min).
By car The single-track road from Salen to Ardnamurchan
Point is 25 miles long; allow about 1hr 30min in each
direction.

INFORMAT ION AND ACTIVITIES
Strontian tourist o ce On the village green (Easter-
Oct daily 10am-5pm; T 01967 402382).
Kilchoan tourist o ce In the community centre (Mon-
Sat: Easter-Oct 9am-5pm; Nov-March 10am-4pm;
T 01972 510711, W ardnamurchan.com).

Ardnamurchan Charters T 01972 500208, W west
-scotland-marine.com. Based in Laga, near Lochaline, but
operates boat trips out of Kilchoan to observe wildlife,
including dolphins, seals, basking sharks, whales and
possibly sea eagles.

ACCOMMODAT ION AND EATING
Accommodation isn't plentiful and in summer you're advised to book through local tourist o ces for B&Bs . Food options
are also limited; Strontian has two modest cafés. The Ferry Stores in Kilchoan carries fresh local produce when available -
ideal for the most westerly picnic tables on mainland Britain at Ardnamurchan Point.

a Scottish gastropub menu: pâtés of smoked mackerel,
whisky and tomatoes, local venison or steak-and-a le pi es for
around £12-15. Daily 11.30am-2pm & 6-9pm. £60

STRONTIAN
Ariundle Centre T 01967 402279, W ariundlecentre
.co.uk. Part of a pleasant craft centre and café serving
cheap fresh lunches and dinner such as tagines and burgers
- a godsend for walkers and cyclists - this modern bunk-
house has dorms, family rooms and twins, all en suite. It's
set among woods a mile from the centre - turn righ t acr oss
Strontian bridge. Food served noon-8pm. Dorms £18

4

GLENBORRODALE
Nàdurra T 01972 500209. The simple café of the natural
history centre rustles up home-made soups and sand-
wiches plus a blackboard menu of dishes such as casseroles
and goulash for under a tenner. April-Oct Mon-Sat
10am-5.30pm, Sun 11.30am-5pm; Nov, Feb & March
Tues-Fri 10am-4pm, Sun noon-3.30pm.

SALEN
Resipole Farm 2 miles east of Salen T 01967 431235,
W resipole.co.uk. This is a well-maintained spot, with a
camping and caravan park plus year-round self-catering
accommodation (one week mi n). Fa cilities include a laundry
and a basic store. Easter-Oct. £14 /pitch
Salen Hotel T 01967 431661, W salenhotel.co.uk. Less a
small hotel than a restaurant with three smart rooms above
- tastefully furnished where modern flair meets antiques -
and simpler comfy rooms in a chalet. The restaurant offers

KILCHOAN
Ì Ardnamurchan Campsite Ormsaigbeg T 01972
511 0766, W ardnamurchanstudycentre.co.uk. Views to
inspire poetry plus campfires on the beach of a laudably
back-to-basics campsite behind the loch - pure magic at
sunset and usually spared summer mi dges b y a breeze. Find
it past the Ferry Stores. Easter-Sept. £7.50 /person

Acharacle and Glenulig
At the eastern end of Ardnamurchan, just north of Salen where the A861 heads north
towards the district of Moidart, the main settlement is ACHARACLE , a nondescript crofting
village set back from Loch Shiel . The reason to swing through is Castle Tioram (pronounced
“cheerum”), one of Scotland's most atmospheric monuments. Perched on a promontory
above Loch Moidart and accessed via a sandy causeway (its Gaelic name means “dry land”),
the thirteenth-century fortress was the seat of the MacDonalds of Clanranald until it was
destroyed by their chief in 1715 to prevent it falling into Hanoverian hands. There's no
entry into the castle, but for a slice of picture-postcard romantic Scotland, it's hard to beat.
It's located a mile north of Acharacle via a side road of the A861.
Keep going north on the A861 and you'll roll through woods to arrive at GLENULIG ,
gathered on a picturesque inlet on the Sound of Arisaig. Barely a hamlet, it makes a
fine base for walking, sea-kayaking (see opposite) - or partying, when the community
centre hosts gigs every fortnight (listings on W glenulig.com).